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Definitely have two litres - the thing that might happen with fitting a pressure bleeder to the reservoir is that the fluid leaks out of the sensors on the top / or the connection to the reservoir.
So be prepared with lots of cloths - pre-wrap the master cylinder area as brake fluid when spilt is an effective paint stripper (strangely when you try to strip paint with brake cleaner it seems to know that you want the paint gone and then it doesn't work! Brake fluid: The first known form of artificial intelligence)
To try and stop this from happening try a low pressure first^^^
If the reservoir caps leak you are probably better off using a vacuum bleeder kit sucking from the bleed screws. This also is not with out problems as air often gets drawn from the side of the bleed screw giving the impression it "still" isn't bled yet.
If you still want to use the power bleeder (but the reservoir cap / sensors leak) you can do "reverse bleeding" by fitting the pressure bleeder to the bleed screw and push fluid up into the reservoir.
Reverse bleeding is advantageous to stubborn lines that don't bleed well like a Mercedes hydraulic clutch as air gets pushed up (which is easier than pulling air down). The disadvantages with pushing fluid "up" is that you need to keep an eye on the level in the reservoir to make sure it doesn't over flow. Also if you haven't pre-drained the muck out of the system (that collects in calipers at the bottom of the system) you end up pushing the crap back up into the system and potentially into the master cylinder causing trouble in the future.
Reverse bleeding is much like those pumps that suck oil out of sumps - the crap gets left behind / remains / hangs about in the system. A good drain is always the best way of removing crud (well a total strip down is even better but not everyone has the time to do that)
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