Quote:
Originally Posted by l_turn9
Great! :-\ I know that happens, but it sounds like you are seeing it on a large scale. It sounds like we can't count on alternate parts sources. It sounds like you are in a shop that does this a lot?
I also don't like the idea of replacing the conductor plate again but I'm beginning to think a dealer plate might be the answer.
Are there any tests I can do before I go to the dealer? If my conductor plate is bad I'll replace it, but it would be nice to know that's the problem. I don't like the thought of throwing parts at the problem without knowing the problem.
I really appreciate all suggestions....
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Yeah, a few. Another shop that I'm friends with that does valve body mods and custom programing on the 6 series for some of the Microsoft geeks that go to the track says the same thing. The code that you're getting certainly points at the conductor plate. I don't know if you bought a new or used shifter, but that's easy to diagnose before buying. The older shifters without the tiptronic like yours, can get stuck in limp mode and you can repair it by replacing the bad selector switch that's not telling the TCU what gear it's in. I don't think that's your problem if you have a new shifter. Also, you didn't say if you cleared codes or not. Sometimes we've replaced them and just go and sometimes we have to clear codes to get out of limp mode. I could be wrong, but with that code I would sh#tcan the after market plate and put an OE one in. There's a reason why they cost $300 at the dealer and $60 to $90 on Amazon