My transmission problems continue! My '06 E350AWD has had the following work performed recently in the hope of solving this problem: new Battery, replaced Shifter Assy., new Conductor plate Filter and Shell 134.

When I drained the oil I failed to see any metal chips, etc. The Fluid was clean & the magnet in the pan was also clean. I've had several threads on this topic and I will try to compress everything When I pulled the Codes I found the following: P0715 wich is an "irregular signal coming from the input/turbine speed sensor in the transmission".

Where is the Input Speed Sensor? Would replacing this Sensor fix my problem?

TIA!

its in the conductor plate, needs replacing , dealer needs to program it , initial start up

I replaced the Conductor plate with a new one. Are you saying the Input Speed Sensor is part of the Conductor Plate? When you say it needs programming. are you referring to clearing the codes, I did that also.

sorry thought we were talking 722.9 , .6 correct conductor plate can be replace then erase codes if any , but the speed sensor is still built into the conductor plate , were did you get the new parts, dealer ? i hope, if your stll getting speed sensor code , trans may have to come apart

Thanks for the great info! I bought my Con. Plate from Amazon - it looked exactly like the one I removed but failed to fix the problem. I just topped the ATF off - it's about 1/2 way between min. & max. - I don't guess it's possible that could cause the fail-to-shift problem? Probably not. Anyway, time to look for more problems...

Thx Again --

Check also the trans control module it may have oil from connector seeping into it, its either in the right fuse box or under the right foot rest cover i believe it says e gas on the cover of the control module

Just to let you know, we've been having issues with some conductor plates right out of the box. Even ones labeled OE by different suppliers. So, we've been buying them from the dealer.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll search for the Trans control module you refer to. But I admit to being confused - I've seen the Valve Body referred to as the TCM also.

Is the connector you mentioned the electr plug that attaches to the conductor plate?

Also, I when I replaced the Conductor Plate I also replaced the electr plug and looked for any oil leakage but did not see any - the transmission in general is very dry BTW.

Love the looks of the car but I'm tired of having a paperweight in my driveway. Getting very frustrated.

Thanks again -

Great! :-\ I know that happens, but it sounds like you are seeing it on a large scale. It sounds like we can't count on alternate parts sources. It sounds like you are in a shop that does this a lot?

I also don't like the idea of replacing the conductor plate again but I'm beginning to think a dealer plate might be the answer.

Are there any tests I can do before I go to the dealer? If my conductor plate is bad I'll replace it, but it would be nice to know that's the problem. I don't like the thought of throwing parts at the problem without knowing the problem.

I really appreciate all suggestions....

Just a thought - have you tried it out starting in low and then manually shifting into drive? Might work; who knows?

Great idea, I did try it during the last test drive and unfortunately it didn't change anything.

I keep thinking there's a electronic gizmo somewhere that has failed but What is it?!

Thanks for the thought -

Yeah, a few. Another shop that I'm friends with that does valve body mods and custom programing on the 6 series for some of the Microsoft geeks that go to the track says the same thing. The code that you're getting certainly points at the conductor plate. I don't know if you bought a new or used shifter, but that's easy to diagnose before buying. The older shifters without the tiptronic like yours, can get stuck in limp mode and you can repair it by replacing the bad selector switch that's not telling the TCU what gear it's in. I don't think that's your problem if you have a new shifter. Also, you didn't say if you cleared codes or not. Sometimes we've replaced them and just go and sometimes we have to clear codes to get out of limp mode. I could be wrong, but with that code I would sh#tcan the after market plate and put an OE one in. There's a reason why they cost $300 at the dealer and $60 to $90 on Amazon

Thanks for the answer - sorry for the delay. The Shifter is used and yes, I did clear the codes. It appears replacing the Conductor Plate with one from the dealer is my best next step. I'd prefer to confirm that will actually fix my problem -- is there's any way to do that? I'm disabled and moving from my wheelchair to the ground then getting back up is a challenge. Can you suggest a way to confirm the problem is really in my Conductor Plate? Any ideas? TIA!!

No one can confirm conductor plate is your problem. It is likely but no guarantee. I had the same problem with my CDI not shifting out of low or not moving at all. If I turned off the car, waited for awhile then the car will shift until it happens next time. I changed the conductor plate buying the cheapest one from eBay and the car is still running after 25k miles.

You mentioned you changed the conductor plate before so it is unlikely your problem. It could be the solenoids but who knows. Don't want to disappoint you but it is what it is.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

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