The yards around here have a frame you can use to pull the engine. Very nice, chain hoist and all. I think you can run it out to the lot and drop the engine right in your truck.

MB engines are easy to pull, with some caveats. First, you will have to tilt it at about 45 degees to get the front sump over the radiator support, then raise the back end up as it comes forward (you aren't going to be able to push the car back). Disconnect all the hoses and wires, driveshaft, and pull speedo gear. Engine and tranny should already be empty, as should the AC. Remove whatever hoses, etc necessary, pull the rad, and remove the tranny crossmember last. Takes two people, but not hard, just messy. Three mounts -- one on each side, tranny mount on crossmember. Neutral safety switch is on the tranny at the linkage. Engine weight a ton, so be careful, even heavier with the tranny hanging on it, but it's vastly easier to take both at once.

If they don't charge extra, keep all the belt driven stuff, give you extras or you can sell them later. Take the tranny, too -- much easier and only 50 or 100 bucks more. You can sell that, too.

As far as looking for trouble goes, evidence of serious blowby would keep me from getting one -- oil vapor deposits on the engine around the dipstick tube, for instance, or air filter housing full of oil.

Don't bother with the rear seal unless you just HAVE to have an engine with one that leaks. Normally, they don't, and you are going to want to put new bearings in when you pull the crank, etc. You CANNOT pull a new seal into this engine -- there is a nice prong right in the middle of the top and bottom of the slot that keeps the seal from moving.

Talk to the yard, they may let you take a battery in and do a compression test in situ.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!