After determining that the engine is my $400 300D is siezed, it looks like the pull your own engine at the yard is best option for me.

I've never been to one of these yards before - anyone else? How do I go about depressurizing the A/C for engine removal - or should I assume that they do that? Do I pull the Engine/Trans then seperate them and leave the trans sittin' there?

I haven't been down to look at the engine yet, but what would y'all recommend as the best inspection procedure? I'm assuming I won't get to start the engine, so any compression testing is out? I figure turn it, check the timing (the easy way), and inspect the thing by eye. General cleanliness, cam intact, timing OK, etc.

I figure I'm also gonna want to replace some stuff before the engine goes back into the car. Rear main seal, upgrade primer pump, install block heater, adjust valve, new belts for my old alternator, A/C and PS, new hoses. Any other thoughts?

Also - the MB Shop Manual suggests flushing the oil cooler if it looks like the bearings were damaged by the bad engine - which I believe they were. How do you flush the oil cooler?

Never pulled an engine before - this should be fun.

Eric
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1971 220D
1981 300D

The yards around here have a frame you can use to pull the engine. Very nice, chain hoist and all. I think you can run it out to the lot and drop the engine right in your truck.

MB engines are easy to pull, with some caveats. First, you will have to tilt it at about 45 degees to get the front sump over the radiator support, then raise the back end up as it comes forward (you aren't going to be able to push the car back). Disconnect all the hoses and wires, driveshaft, and pull speedo gear. Engine and tranny should already be empty, as should the AC. Remove whatever hoses, etc necessary, pull the rad, and remove the tranny crossmember last. Takes two people, but not hard, just messy. Three mounts -- one on each side, tranny mount on crossmember. Neutral safety switch is on the tranny at the linkage. Engine weight a ton, so be careful, even heavier with the tranny hanging on it, but it's vastly easier to take both at once.

If they don't charge extra, keep all the belt driven stuff, give you extras or you can sell them later. Take the tranny, too -- much easier and only 50 or 100 bucks more. You can sell that, too.

As far as looking for trouble goes, evidence of serious blowby would keep me from getting one -- oil vapor deposits on the engine around the dipstick tube, for instance, or air filter housing full of oil.

Don't bother with the rear seal unless you just HAVE to have an engine with one that leaks. Normally, they don't, and you are going to want to put new bearings in when you pull the crank, etc. You CANNOT pull a new seal into this engine -- there is a nice prong right in the middle of the top and bottom of the slot that keeps the seal from moving.

Talk to the yard, they may let you take a battery in and do a compression test in situ.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I would imagine that if the yard would let you bring in a battery to check compression, you might as well just see if you can start it and see it run. I've actually seen guys start engines in some of those help yourself yards.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Some places will pull the engine for you and give you a guarantee. There are also used engine places where the engine is pulled, compression and oil pressure tested, crated and ready to go. You will pay more but peace of mind costs. Open the yellow pages and talk to some local indys to see what they have to say. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

They will most likely let you bring compressed air in. buy about$100 or rent a leak down tester it will save you a lot of grief. Yards are required by law to drain AC refrigerant most also have to drain fuel coolant oil and battery strangely enough cigarette lighters and catalytic converters too. If you don’t know about leak down testers do a search. Pick n pull chargers about $ 6o dollars more for complete motor than bare block and head. We pick motor then switch out accessories with best looking ones in yard. There engine hoist are great and with car lifted the way they are its real easy to lift motor out. Check tranny fluid that’s left in pan see if its real burnt then you will know if tranny went out and that is a good reason for the car being there with only 180k on the motor.
good luck