It's an M102 engine. Easy to replace a head gasket for anyone familiar with this sort of work. I have done this job on both an M102 and M103 and they are similar. With the M102 you don't have to deal with a distributor or upper-front timing cover as with the M103. I found the manifold nuts/bolts a little more difficult to deal with on the M102 though. Workshop manuals suggest pulling the head with both manifolds attached. I (like many others here) prefer to leave the inlet manifold in the engine bay to avoid disturbing all the wiring etc.

The mileage on the car will determine whether the head, valves, guides, etc. require additional work. If the head is flat and everything else OK you can get away with cleaning it, new valve stem seals and head gasket. You will need to at least check it all though. Stretch head bolts need to be checked for length and replaced if stretched beyond limit. They need to be torqued correctly in three stages when reinstalled. I recently helped my brother replace the head gasket on his '92 180E (190E-1.8) at just 93,000km. Everything on it was perfect except for just the head gasket. The head went back on with a new gasket and head bolts (to play it safe) after thoroughly cleaning everything and fitting new stem seals. Most of the cost with that job was replacing all the oil contaminated hoses in the cooling system.

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107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.