xp,

I probably should have also mentioned that the most stubborn part of the job on my brother's car were the pins retaining the timing chain guide rail in the front of the head. Between the two of us we probably spent an hour with a slide hammer extracting the pins. Attempting to extract them by winding a screw though a washer and spacer (or winding a nut down a stud through a washer and spacer) appeared that it would only result in a broken-off stud in the pins. Fortunately, I had a slide hammer I made up years ago for the same job on the M116 in my 350SLC. I have also used it doing the head on the M103 in our 300TE. It is a length of steel rod with a 6mm stud threaded in one end (this screws into the pin) and a large nut threaded onto the opposite end. A weight slides along the rod and hammers against the large nut thereby pulling on the stud threaded into the pin. Without this tool I would have been in an awkward situation, especially on the stubborn pins in the M102. The only other "special" tools you will require are the 12 point driver for the head bolts, a good torque wrench of known accuracy and a 17mm allen key for the timing chain tensioner. I made one up using a bolt with 17mm nuts locked together. Good luck with the job.

Greg

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107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.