I have found the system will self-bleed rather quickly if the throttle is held wide open while cranking.

Another method I use is to remove the glow plugs (to minimize starter load) and crank the engine at W.O.T. until a fuel mist is present at each plug opening.

Then, refit the glow plugs and the engine will start immediately.

Here is another tip on the 'drip' method: We never used it at the dealership.

When replacing the pump, align the marks on the splined hub and pump body. Set the crankshaft hub to 24° BTDC and insert the pump with the studs in the middle of the slotted holes.

We had an impulse timing light when I was employed by MB and the few times we actually checked timing, it was always right on when installing the pump as described above.

As far as timing with the engine together, we used to advance the pump until the engine 'sounded & felt good' and left it at that.

Remember, the 'drip' method didn't lend itself to practicality in a flat-rate dealership.

I have used the method a time or two, but sometimes, we just couldn't seem to get the flow to stop as MB describes, so we just stopped messing with it altogether.

I am running my 617.950 at about 27° BTDC which it seems to like very much. With the increased fuel pressure, camshaft advance of 4°, turbine upgrades and 12+ lbs. of boost, it is a wild car to drive now.

I know some of these tips might not apply to your situation, but I hope some of this is helpful...Bert