I'm working on the IP timing. I have everything set as per the Haynes manual instructions in the "start of delivery" section. I'm at 25 deg BTDC on the #1 compression stroke, cam lobes are up in V shape. I made a drip tool from a injector tube, followed the instructions on the "one drop per second" and everything was going well until I realized I didn't have the throttle wired open. I was getting one drop per second but when I opened the throttle I was just getting full flow and the flow would quit, no drops. Using the pump each time, I tried moving the IP forward and backward and got the same thing, no drops. I need help desperatly in order to get this beauty running. I purchased it 4 months ago and have done extensive work on it and it shows. Now if I can just get it running. When I get the timing set will I need to bleed the air out of the lines and how is that done.

Help that is much needed and appreciated.

Thanks, JFC697077

One thing I forgot to mention. The ALDA has been messed with by a so called diesel mechanic. Don't know whether or not that will have any affect on the IP timing? Since this unit it possibly out of wack, if I were to readjust it say at the far left, CCW, how far right should I adjust it to be on the safe side? I read where adjusting the ALDA could ruin the IP???

JFC

Won't ruin the IP...but you could ruin the Alda itself.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

James,

The ALDA doesn't affect the IP until there is turbo boost in the manifold. The ALDA's job is to add extra fuel when more air is going into the cylinders from the boost pressure in the manifold.

Sorry, its been so long since I did drip timing, I can't remember much about it. But I can't remember ever wiring the throttle open. I hope someone else can help you.

P E H

I noticed the same thing when timing my IP. From my experience, I had a clearer deliniation of flow to drop condition when I had the throttle setting at idle. Full throttle produced an unwieldy flow and I was pumping the heck out of it trying to keep up. I would put it where it works.

__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

James is doing a good job of following the instructions... The throttle is supposed to be wired to full opening...

This is the method that I used, it has always worked for me

I read that yesterday. Interesting to say the least. Since I've already done the "jewel" method and all the lines are hooked back up I'll try and start the engine and if it is still running bad I'll try the neanderthal method. Thanks.

I will have to bleed the lines. What's the best way to do this?????

JFC

You just loosen the lines a tiny bit at the injector and use the starter to try to fire her up... keep your socket ready and as they are leaking tighten them up...

I tried the Easley method (below) on my '85 300D and got way-off, unrepeatable results. Yes, I did it carefully many times. It DOES NOT WORK RIGHT on my IP. The drip method works fine, but I prefer the air version of the drip method; you hook up low pressure air to the IP fuel inlet, blow out the fuel, and put a hose on your drip fitting into a bottle of water or fuel and watch for the bubbles to stop.

"With your helper watching the injection valve closely, turn the crank as slow as possible by hand until the point where your helper first notices fuel "welling up" in the bottom of the injection valve. [It will be beneficial at this point to mark the "bottom" side of the pulley with chalk to inform you, underneath the car, that you are getting near the mark."

Bruce McCreary
(2) '85 300D '83 300CD
Snowflake, AZ

I did the fuel welling up thing.......by that I still have it a few degrees retarded...which due to some white smoke when it first starts tend to makes me think my assessment is correct.

Still uncertain as to my ability to get it right on the money.....

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I have found the system will self-bleed rather quickly if the throttle is held wide open while cranking.

Another method I use is to remove the glow plugs (to minimize starter load) and crank the engine at W.O.T. until a fuel mist is present at each plug opening.

Then, refit the glow plugs and the engine will start immediately.

Here is another tip on the 'drip' method: We never used it at the dealership.

When replacing the pump, align the marks on the splined hub and pump body. Set the crankshaft hub to 24° BTDC and insert the pump with the studs in the middle of the slotted holes.

We had an impulse timing light when I was employed by MB and the few times we actually checked timing, it was always right on when installing the pump as described above.

As far as timing with the engine together, we used to advance the pump until the engine 'sounded & felt good' and left it at that.

Remember, the 'drip' method didn't lend itself to practicality in a flat-rate dealership.

I have used the method a time or two, but sometimes, we just couldn't seem to get the flow to stop as MB describes, so we just stopped messing with it altogether.

I am running my 617.950 at about 27° BTDC which it seems to like very much. With the increased fuel pressure, camshaft advance of 4°, turbine upgrades and 12+ lbs. of boost, it is a wild car to drive now.

I know some of these tips might not apply to your situation, but I hope some of this is helpful...Bert

Thanks you guys for all your info. I can surely find one of these methods to get me up and runnin. Charging up the battery now. This place is great. Heck, I might learn to be a diesel mechanic yet.

Jfc697077

69 GP 428,M40 auto.(show car)
70 Chevelle SS 454 (show car)
77 300D (soon to be a show car)