I was asked the following, in a Thread about storage life of vegetable oil, so I am starting a new thread to answer the question.
Lord Diesel,
When I converted my first diesel to use solid hydrogenated palm oil, I was the first one in West Oz (to my knowledge) to make a 2 tank conversion capable of using solid oils as a fuel.
There were NO kits available.
The WVO fuel tank was fabricated from Real Estate "for sale" signs. These were made of galvanised iron. Oops - BAD. Diesel or WVO react with zinc metal.
The WVO filter was made from a GM oil pump filter housing hacksawed apart and a plate made up to connect the in and out WVO lines, a 24v glowplug heater and thermostat.
a 3 port solenoid valve was used to select the fuel source. the return line was looped for both fuels.

The WVO was melted and poured into the new fuel tank. To prime the WVO fuel system, I switched between diesel & WVO until the engine stopped missing due to air in the fuel lines.

My brother In Law & I went for a drive and switched over to WVO. After 10km, we stopped and smelled the exhaust - Mmmm BBQ.

I have since helped many motorists to convert their own vehicles (I believe that as they will need to maintain the conversion, <mechanics would just scratch their head "Huh, it runs in WOT?" > that they should do the conversion themselves.)

Last year I bought my current MB 300D and converted it to WVO.
I decided to do a "minimum conversion" where only liquid WVO is used. I have not provided a heated fuel tank or heated fuel lines.
My WVO fuel tanks are 20 litre HDPE "Cubies". The fuel delivery line is a piece of 12mm copper pipe, connected to nitrile rubber fuel line, which passes thru a hole in the cubie screw lid.
I have installed a "Holley Blue" electric fuel pump, which does not like to pump my WVO unless it has been warmed up a bit (>25'C), or diluted with ~5% to 10% diesel or biodiesel or petrol. - I use 10% biodiesel dilution.
I am currently using 5 metres of the cheapest "garden hose" I could buy ($3.99 for 15 metres), as the WVO fuel line.
I DO have a coolant/WVO heater in the engine bay.
The WVO filter is a CAV style filter with sediment bowl, purchased from a truck wreckers. No heater is fitted to this filter, which is immediately after the WVO heater.
I use a Pollack 6 port valve to change fuel sources and the return line from "looped" on WVO (before the WVO heater), to "return to tank" on diesel.
I have a "Turbo Boost Gauge" plumbed to measure the fuel pressure at the IP inlet port.

I do not loop the injector return lines as they are not pressure rated fuel lines and the flow in these lines, on my engine, is minimal they return to the stock fuel tank.

My wife's 300D runs on a blend approx 50% in winter (minimum overnight temps rarely hit 0'C) to 75% in summer. It is fitted with a small coolant/ fuel heat exchanger, to minimise filter plugging issues. This keeps SWMBO happy.
I am considering changing my conversion, so that the stock fuel tank becomes the WVO tank and a "Jerry Can" becomes the start / shutdown fuel tank. I will design the changes and implement them when happy with the design and when I have time to do it.

I hope that this helps you.
Tony

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

I thought that I would resurrect this thread, seems to be some good info here. (that did not seem to attract much attention)

Whenever I get my car done (or at least road-worthy) I will be converting it to run on vegetable oil.