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  #76  
Old 08-16-2005, 09:42 AM
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Take the injectors apart and clean them out when you take them out of the engine. Carbon build-up on the bottom of the injector is normal and is not an indication of a problem.

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  #77  
Old 08-16-2005, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwitchKitty
Take the injectors apart and clean them out when you take them out of the engine. Carbon build-up on the bottom of the injector is normal and is not an indication of a problem.
and take pictures of them clean and dirty for future comparision!!!
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The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels
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  #78  
Old 08-16-2005, 12:43 PM
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A friend who was an MB tech said the injectors may have some powdery carbon on them, but not the crusty buildup I'm seeing. Maybe he's been out of MB's too long (3 years). From the pix I took, they seemed pretty bad to me, though the car still ran great. Actually all ten injectors looked the same, though one car had 7k on the oil and one only had 2k.

I'd sure like to know if they are normal. I'm suspecting that one of my oil sources has something in it that makes the injectors coke. It's a great source of clean oil otherwise and I'd hate to have to bypass them, but I don't want to coke the injectors and/or rings. Does anyone else have pix of just-pulled injectors I could compare? One set had 190k on them. Wonder what they normally look like.
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1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer
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  #79  
Old 08-16-2005, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenknots
I'm suspecting that one of my oil sources has something in it that makes the injectors coke. It's a great source of clean oil otherwise and I'd hate to have to bypass them, but I don't want to coke the injectors and/or rings.
One oil source test I remember reading about is to determine the oil's "stickiness". Take some of your well filtered ready to use WVO and spread a thin layer of it on a sheet of metal or glass. Let it sit a few days, then touch it with your fingers to see if the residue is tacky. It was recommended that you do this as a side by side comparison with new virgin SVO, as even new oil gets a little sticky. But if your WVO is a lot more sticky, it needs to be washed out with water and then dried to get the emulsified sugars and starchey stuff out.

Dave
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  #80  
Old 08-16-2005, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coldwar
One oil source test I remember reading about is to determine the oil's "stickiness". Take some of your well filtered ready to use WVO and spread a thin layer of it on a sheet of metal or glass. Let it sit a few days, then touch it with your fingers to see if the residue is tacky. It was recommended that you do this as a side by side comparison with new virgin SVO, as even new oil gets a little sticky. But if your WVO is a lot more sticky, it needs to be washed out with water and then dried to get the emulsified sugars and starchey stuff out.

Dave
The only oil I can find used seems to be soy oil. New or used, it's sticky. I will not run it straight anymore, but it makes excellent biodiesel.
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  #81  
Old 08-16-2005, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stockdad
I wonder how a WVO/RUG blend would work in my diesel Suburban (95). It has a finicky PMD, so I might keep feeding it my biodiesel homebrew and fuel the 82 300D with a blend. Filtering WVO and blending it with RUG is sure a helluva lot easier then brewing biodiesel. No lye/methanol to deal with and no glycerine byproduct to dispose of. Until ethanol becomes more available and economically viable, a blend seems as 'PC' as biodiesel, no?
Hope you haven't tried the WVO blend in your Suburban. A friend of mine is a GM diesel mechanic and he says it'll ruin the IP for sure. Gm IP's of that vintage are finicky anyway. I put two in my '95 Sub and then decided to get rid of it before another one of GM's $1400 "light bulbs" went kaput.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #82  
Old 08-16-2005, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill murrow
Hope you haven't tried the WVO blend in your Suburban. A friend of mine is a GM diesel mechanic and he says it'll ruin the IP for sure. ...Cheers, Bill
next time you see him ask him if lubricity is his concern. If his concern is lubricity then he knows absolutly nothing about veg oil as fuel. It has better lubricity even with gas added. If his concern is the IP dealiing with a thicker fuel then he might have something there.
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by JerryBro


The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels
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  #83  
Old 08-16-2005, 10:43 PM
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After reading this great thread I was inspired to get my feet wet with SVO/WVO. This morning before I left for work I poured a 32oz bottle of new vegetable oil in my tank, which already had about 5 gallons of diesel in it. That's only a 5% mix but I didn't have any more. I noticed no change in power or engine knock but the exhaust did smell a little different. No worries there.

I have arranged with the cafeteria at work to pick up several gallons of WVO from their fryer this Thursday. I am ordering filters from McMaster-Carr (5 Micron) and am looking around for a suitable switchover valve for a two-tank system. I have a pair of 55-gallon plastic drums to hang filters in.

I have a couple of (hopefully easy) questions:

1. McMaster-Carr sells 1-micron filters. Why not use those? Is the WVO too thick to go through them? I'd like to have the cleanest oil possible, of course, and my garage is 120 degrees all day long which ought to help.

2. I haven't heard of anyone trying this with a 602 2.5 Turbo engine. Does my fuel system have a return line, and if so how do I deal with that when switching over from diesel to WVO in a 2-tank system?

I'm going to the garage now to mix a glass full of 4 parts vegetable oil and one part RUG. I just want to observe the properties of the mixture - I may try the blend thing for a while since I'm in Texas and it won't cool off here for a few more months.

Thanks in advance for your replies,
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  #84  
Old 08-17-2005, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coachgeo
next time you see him ask him if lubricity is his concern. If his concern is lubricity then he knows absolutly nothing about veg oil as fuel. It has better lubricity even with gas added. If his concern is the IP dealiing with a thicker fuel then he might have something there.
Yes, thicker fuel is his main concern and he is not sure of compatability with the seals in the pump. Some types of fuels will eat up the pump seals he says. He openly admits he knows little about alternative fuels. I know the IP's in the 6.5's are finicky as it is. Now the 6.2's IMHO might be a better candidate. Few Ip problems with them. Still nothing to compare with the reliable 617's.

Cheers,

Bill
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  #85  
Old 08-17-2005, 10:58 AM
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Clarification on coking: Carbon build-up is not coking; coking is epoxy build-up in your combustion chamber. You can imagine how well your engine works with epoxy build-up on your rings and valves. Lucky for us the 617 is not prone to coking due to the combustion chamber design.
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  #86  
Old 08-17-2005, 11:02 AM
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Can I ask you at what ratio would it be safe to heat the oil ? Is it safe to heat Diesel ?

I am thinking of using about 90WVO:10RUG, with an electrical inline heater to start the car, then a coolant heat exchange in the engine bay to heat the oil, but sometimes if I need to fill up with Diesel, I would have to have a way to bypass this heat exchanger, correct ?
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  #87  
Old 08-17-2005, 11:06 AM
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Speedy, the 1-micron filter is even better, but may be slower depending on how much fat is in the oil.

I use a 10-micron inside of a 1-micron and the oil flows through as fast a as bucket suspended over a barrel with a 5/8" hose will feed. At 120 degrees, you shouldn't have any problem.

I added 10% RUG to a wvo sample a month ago. I refrigerated it, froze it, stored it outside and in the shed. There is no separation yet.

Interesting about that test. I have spilled a couple of drops on my rear window while filling up and noticed that it got very sticky after a few days. I think I'll try a more controlled test with virgin oil as well.
__________________
1984 300Sd 210k

Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer
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  #88  
Old 08-17-2005, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenknots
...Interesting about that test. I have spilled a couple of drops on my rear window while filling up and noticed that it got very sticky after a few days. I think I'll try a more controlled test with virgin oil as well.
You need to also spill an equal amount of Diesel and let it dry for comparision. Think about it, you've seen/felt the stains and the stickyness around the diesel fuel pump at the filling stations havn't you. Diesel has got to be sticky too.
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"If anyone knows other lessons I need to learn, please tell me. I'm tired of learning them the hard way".
by JerryBro


The Glow Plug Wait: This waiting period is a moment of silence to pay honor to Rudolph Diesel. The longer you own your diesel the more honor you will give him". by SD Blue

My normal daily life; either SNAFUed- Situation Normal... All Fouled Up, or FUBARed- Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD daily driver- both powered by blended UCO fuels
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  #89  
Old 08-19-2005, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenknots
Speedy, the 1-micron filter is even better, but may be slower depending on how much fat is in the oil.
I use a 10-micron inside of a 1-micron and the oil flows through as fast a as bucket suspended over a barrel with a 5/8" hose will feed. At 120 degrees, you shouldn't have any problem.
Thanks for the reply. I ordered a 5/1 micron bag (5 micron inside a 1 micron) along with another small 1 micron filter for used motor oil. Unfortunately they will not be here until next week. I picked up my first batch of WVO today, about six gallons. I ran it through a T-shirt which got out all of the crumbs. It is a dark brown color but otherwise looks pretty good to my untrained eye.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tenknots
I added 10% RUG to a wvo sample a month ago. I refrigerated it, froze it, stored it outside and in the shed. There is no separation yet.
I was disappointed to read a post on this forum that stated that RUG CANNOT be run throug a 602/603 IP without ruining it. Can anyone confirm this? I really wanted to try the 80%WVO/20%RUG blend but I'm not going to do it if there is a chance of frying my injector pump.

Thanks,
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  #90  
Old 08-19-2005, 01:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy
Thanks for the reply. I ordered a 5/1 micron bag (5 micron inside a 1 micron) along with another small 1 micron filter for used motor oil. Unfortunately they will not be here until next week. I picked up my first batch of WVO today, about six gallons. I ran it through a T-shirt which got out all of the crumbs. It is a dark brown color but otherwise looks pretty good to my untrained eye.



I was disappointed to read a post on this forum that stated that RUG CANNOT be run throug a 602/603 IP without ruining it. Can anyone confirm this? I really wanted to try the 80%WVO/20%RUG blend but I'm not going to do it if there is a chance of frying my injector pump.

Thanks,
Gasoline does not lubricate, and diesel thinned with it won't either. Add WVO and you have lubricity, that's why it's OK.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg
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