Does it work good? What sand rust level,and paint?

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

I like it, seems to protect well. Somewhat time consuming to use. Leaving light rust gives a tooth to promote adhesion. Important to coat both sides of any thing you're trying to stop from rusting.

It is very difficult to remove from overspray/overbrush/spills. Be careful.

Once opened shelf life shortens, so don't buy more than needed for one task.

Good luck!!!

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

thanks sugar,got a small one, they also sell a kit with cleaner,should I buy that too?

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

The cleaner is for greasy surfaces. There is a metal prep phosphate??? I would use the metal prep,. I'd use the cleaner only if the metal is dirty.

The prep and cleaner are two different products.

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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer

I believe it is known as POR 15.

The POR15 / KBS type stuff was very popular on this forum a few years back.

I've used it quite extensively on parts of my W123 and to be honest I don't think it was worth the effort. I think Hammerite would have been better (and potentially easier to repair in the event of chipping and scratching)

The problem I have with POR15 is partly the preparation and partly the result. To do the job "properly" you are encouraged to buy the special degreaser and then the special prep fluid and then use the black paint. To be honest it is a ball ache especially on car parts where the degreaser actually isn't up to the job most of the time.

The results after a few years have been a very hard brittle finish that cracks and flakes away from the surface. The pedantic will say it was a preparation problem - I say it is "just like that". I've also seen a fair amount of rust creep under the treated surface.

I recommend the Eastwood rust encapsulator if you're into a one stop brush on solution

Better still the classic car restoration "crew" now seem to be playing about with epoxy primers and other solutions that have been more commonly considered to be marine solutions.

I particularly like the Epifanes epoxy primer which has the nice feeling of a zinc impregnated safety blanket. After spraying many parts of my Volvo in epoxy I've had the feeling this stuff will be longer lasting than the many many many other products I've tried to date...

...I might be writing something different in five years of course! But I'm sure I won't be going back to POR15 again...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

thanks strech,one more thing.How about miracle paint?

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

Never tried it - can't get it here



No miracles allowed (!)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Old Skool Bill Hirsch ... was around in the late 80s and early 90s when I tinkered with Packards. Old timers swear by it ...

New to the forum and very much an enthusiast. Kent at ************** swears by it as well. I've heard too many accounts of POR 15 coming off in sheets--it used to be the one mainly recommended for undercoating on bare/prone to rust areas. When its time to overhaul the sunroof drains on my 560 SEC, clean up the door bottom sheetmetal, and replace the rear windshield lower panel between the trunk, I'll be using Miracle Paint.

When I bought my 300CD bout eight years ago, it had a rust-through spot in the left trunk well.

Cleaned it up, laid some fiberglass in and painted it both sides with Kent's "miracle paint". It's still in there.

well I used the por stuff.worked well,cleaned with wire brush,on drill.No lost metal.Wheel arches,and drivers,under side of door.w140.Stop it before metal goes.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt