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  #46  
Old 07-15-2005, 12:09 AM
whunter's Avatar
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Talking My $0.02

Quote:
Originally Posted by 82-300td
Misspelled word and all.
Let he who has never Misspelled a word cast the first stone.
Hey, does that make me a spelling preacher?
Ah well I guess I can't konk what I don't ZZZZZZZZ.
Mabee I kneed zome zleep.
Good night.

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  #47  
Old 07-19-2005, 01:46 PM
Emu Rancher
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 664
I think I found the problem. The brown line that goes through the grommet by the fuse box isn't connected to anything on the other side. I couldn't tell where it should go by just looking aroudn the engin compartment though. Any help would be very apreciated.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking
Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex
Recent work:
Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields
Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts
Replaced positive battery terminal
Replaced negative battery terminal and cord
New Duralast Battery

My car needs work.
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  #48  
Old 07-19-2005, 02:23 PM
Craig
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Based on this vacuum diagram:

http://www.ultrahot.com/vacuum/IP_shutoff.jpg

it looks like the solid brown line is the vacuum supply from the vacuum pump to the ignition switch. Look for a tee in the line from the vacuum pump.
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  #49  
Old 07-19-2005, 11:46 PM
Emu Rancher
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 664
Thanks a lot. I got it hooked up and my car's shutting off properly again. It's a litle rough but the rubber fitting is pretty worn and I had to use some ducdt tape temporariyl until I go get a new one. Next thing Is getting my exhaust pipe welded back together.
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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking
Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex
Recent work:
Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields
Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts
Replaced positive battery terminal
Replaced negative battery terminal and cord
New Duralast Battery

My car needs work.
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  #50  
Old 08-01-2005, 10:34 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilmington NC
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by adiaw83
I think I'm having this problem but my engine does not "runaway" I turn the key to the off position and take it out but the engine will stay on idling at the same speed as if the key was in the on position with the car in park. I haven't had a chance to start diagnosing and fixing this but is this what everyone calls a runaway diesel?
Did 82-300td's suggestion salve your probleme...I just bought a 300td two weeks ago and I've been infected with the same problem ...how did you get yours fixed?
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  #51  
Old 08-02-2005, 02:04 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 336
RE: runaway diesel.

Never mind M-Bs or boats,

What happens when this occurs in TRAINS???

(sorry for the non-technical bent, just picturing cartoonish accidents)
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  #52  
Old 08-03-2005, 06:23 PM
ForcedInduction
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Well, I have first hand experience of a run away. TWICE!!!

The "idle adjustment" cable from a 240D I installed got into a bind while I was moving. I was accelerating from a stoplight, got to speed, let off the pedal and I kept going!!!! I pulled over and basicly did a powerstall from 45 to 0 for 10 seconds. (I did make a nice 6-foot long patch of rubber! ) I then put it in park, released the hood and hit the stop lever. It free revved for about 8 seconds before coming to a stop.

I got everything back in place and it did it again 2 blocks later!!!

After all that, my tranny is screwed! It flares really bad betweed gears and it won't start in 1st now. Pulling the vacuum line halped shifting bat it's still far from right.

Long stoory short: It's not always a problem with the engine that can cause a run away!
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  #53  
Old 08-03-2005, 10:22 PM
WANT '71 280SEL's Avatar
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Location: Dallas, TX
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After replacing the shut-off valve on my SDL I had it run away twice! before I got it back together properly. The first time it ran away it was free revving for about 30 seconds while I fumbled around for a 14mm wrench then settled for a crescent wrench. You have no idea how fast my heart was racing after being next to the fender in a closed workshop with metal siding. The room was full of smoke and I couldn't hardly see to even get a wrench! It happened like 17k miles ago and I've seen no negative side effects. It still has great compression and doesn't burn oil, so I'm happy.
Now if I could just finish with all the oil leaks and get it as fast as it should. I found out a month ago that my car was sluggish even when I bought it so I don't really know just how fast an SDL should be. I think it's about 3 seconds slow accelerating to 60 but I can't be sure with my timing method.

Thanks
David
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  #54  
Old 10-23-2005, 01:00 PM
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New members

New members.
I hope this issue never happens to you.
But if it does, what you remember from this thread may save your engine.
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  #55  
Old 10-23-2005, 02:06 PM
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I just had a thought regarding my old OM615 motor. Since my motor has an actual throttlebody, what are my risks of a runaway engine? I don't have any warning signs - line from the vac pump to the manifold is clean, doesn't use oil, etc. But, since I have controll of the air entering the engine as well, wouldn't a runaway condition just cause a bunch of smoke but not uncontrollable revs?
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1992 Chrysler LeBaron, 3.0V6 125K. Family owned (moms side) through three generations since new.
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  #56  
Old 10-23-2005, 03:34 PM
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Does it

Quote:
Originally Posted by BluEyes
I just had a thought regarding my old OM615 motor. Since my motor has an actual throttle body, what are my risks of a runaway engine? I don't have any warning signs - line from the vacuum pump to the manifold is clean, doesn't use oil, etc. But, since I have control of the air entering the engine as well, wouldn't a runaway condition just cause a bunch of smoke but not uncontrollable revs?
Does it achieve a near perfect air seal?
If not, then you have the same risk as anyone else.
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  #57  
Old 10-23-2005, 07:23 PM
vwoodruff
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So I am in the process of replacing the shutoff valve in my '85 300D, and, thanks to this thread, I was prepared for runaway. It indeed happened, and I jumped all over it.

My question is this... How in the hell can you tell if the shutoff valve has properly grabbed the appropriate piece? There is almost zero clearance between the valve and the oil filter housing, making it quite difficult to manuever. ANd if I have to take off and put on the mounting bolts more than once, I'm going to lose it!
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  #58  
Old 12-21-2005, 07:38 PM
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cross linking your thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur
Earlier this year my '80 240D ran away. My son unknowingly overfilled the crankcase with 3-4 quarts more oil than it should have had.
cross linking your thread

240D runaway engine
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=93133
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  #59  
Old 12-21-2005, 11:42 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwoodruff
My question is this... How in the hell can you tell if the shutoff valve has properly grabbed the appropriate piece? There is almost zero clearance between the valve and the oil filter housing, making it quite difficult to manuever. ANd if I have to take off and put on the mounting bolts more than once, I'm going to lose it!
Just take your time and do it calmly...

I like to wiggle stuff around or whip out the vac pump and see if it sounds/feels like it is ACTUALLY pulling on the rack. If you can imagine how it works inside, you will figure out how to properly put the shutoff in
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  #60  
Old 12-22-2005, 03:50 AM
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CO2 Extinguisher , not just any extinguisher.

I kept wondering this while reading this thread and it was never stated inside it so here is a bump from another thread:


DaBoneheadDocter says :


Diesel won't run without oxigen...CO2 is pure Carbon Dioxide and it won't support combustion....CO2 into the intake will stop a runaway diesel.

But use any other type extinguisher and kiss the engine good-bye.

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