I purchased a 1976 240 d with an unknown year 220d engine in it. I found the # 4 injector not to open at all. All the injectors are new rebuilt The previous owner dumped a ton of new parts into this car before giving up on it and selling it to me for $200 and I still feel like I robbed him. I now have the car so it will start it runs like crap below 3k rpm but above that it runs pretty well. I should mention this is a crate motor he put in it. Why he used a 220 d motor Ill never know. So I check the timing chain using the quick and dirty method using the marks in this image.

as compared to this picture well it wont put the picture in so here is a link on this site http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=84590&page=1&pp=15 mine is 180 degrees off the mark on the washer is 180 degrees from the cam tower mark as is the lobe on the cam shaft. Now the question how in the world did this happen and how do I rectify it leathermang please chime in. Thanks in advance for all the help I get with my silly strange problems the cars I buy seem to have.
Dave San Jose CA.

Matt,

If I understand you correctly, you are saying that when the Crankshaft is on TDC, the cam mark is 180 degrees out of position. If that is correct, that is not an indication of anything wrong. You must turn the crankshaft one more full rotation and line up TDC at the crank perfectly. THEN you can check the mark at the camshaft. Do that and then tell us where the cam mark lines up.

Good luck,

Ok I had to rotate it with the key because it just kept springing back when I tried to rotate it with a wrench. Direction of rotation clockwise facing the radiator does the failure to rotate indicate a timing chain tensioner problem?
I find it hard to believe but with the cam shaft lined up the crank shaft is at 15 degrees. The timing chain guides look brand new I am going to rotate it several more times to see that I come up with the same results. I guess he could have replaced timing chain guides and not the chain. The car runs like it is badly out of time till high RPM. 15 degrees off and it runs guess it is not even safe to start again with that amount of stretch let alone drive around the neighbor hood.
Thanks for your help I will let you know what I finally find out.
Dave S

It turns with the wrench now I get 15 degrees off every time I try it with the key rotating it a bunch of times then lining up the marks it is 15 degrees off every time. I guess this is final I need a new chain. I looked at the rail the chain rides against and it is brand new. Still has the part # sticker on it I guess no I know I would make the same dumb mistakes with out this forums help and would not own a MBZ diesel instead of 2 great ones and one soon to be great one. All cars bought for a song after others had given up on them after spending a small fortune on them. I cant thank you enough for taking the time to help me with my some times not so bright questions and problems. Of cource I will by my chain here.
Dave S

15 degrees which way????

I would be willing to bet that it is fifteen degrees retarded. That is, when the cam mark is lined up, the crankshaft has turned 15 degrees past top dead center, right? If it were 15 degrees advanced you would probably have valve to piston contact.

If I am correct, you need to remove the tensioner and move the chain on the cam sprocket so that the mark lines up. You then may have to retime the injection pump.

Let us know and we will help you through it.

Good luck,

Sorry it took so long to get back to you there was a little emergency ok little is an under statement any how,
I am very lucky it does not sound like there’s any piston valve contact and this car is amazing that it runs at all or I am not getting it so here goes. When my cam tower mark is aligned with the notch in the cam washer as pictured in the link earlier in this thread my crank has to turn 15 degrees in the proper direction of rotation to be at 0 on the crank shaft. Or as my son calls it “it is 15 degrees positive”
I am correct then that I need a new timing chain?
Dave S San Jose Ca

No, you don't need a new timing chain. This is a fresh engine isn't it? You need to remove the tensioner and then loosen the chain on the cam gear and move it one notch so that it aligns properly (with the tensioner reinstalled of course.)

Even though your cam is advanced, if it does not make noise then you should align the marks properly. You must get the engine timed properly before proceeding.

Good luck,

I have not determined if it is brand new I just know it is a crate motor and it doesn’t look like it was run much. The po was very sheepish about telling me just how much he spent on the car for his nephews 18th birthday but he adamantly would not give me nor let me see the receipts for the car because he said he needed them for a tax deduction nor would he let me have the new interior sitting in the detached 5 car garage But any way I think I will give it a shot and then carefully try rotating the engine by hand. If I feel no contact like valves hitting pistons I should be ok right? I get a manual on cd in 3 or 4 days I might wait till then though I am not familiar with the procedure to do it on this engine.

Yes, 15 degrees is too much to be stretch. It has to be off by a tooth. Get the marks to align correctly and then, yes, turn the engine by hand TWO FULL TURNS. Once you are convinced that the marks align properly, then time the IP. You will probably have to pull the IP and align the marks that you will see on the splines. If you are lucky, you might get by with simply loosening the IP bolts and turning the IP to get it right.

Consult your manual when you get it for correct IP timing.

Good luck,

Sounds to me that it's off a tooth. Pull the glow plugs so you can turn the engine by hand. Then listen to Larry Bible.

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daBenz - 1970 220D

You must turn the engine with a wrench to check the valve timing, if you crank it, it will "bouce" back from the compression on #1 and all the slack in the chain gets wound off onto the "tight" side since your chain tensioner is loose (no oil pressure). This can be quite a bit depending on the condition of the chain guides.

On a good engine, it will take some force to crank it around by hand, and you will have to hold it until the compression bleeds off around the rings to check.

I'd not be surprised, though, that you are off -- my 220D was about 13 degrees late when I changed the chain (going to check the IP today, still won't start!), and it ran.

If you have an injector that won't fire at low speed, chances are the pressure valve seal in the IP is leaking, will cause a hard knock or dead cylinder at low speed because there is no residual pressure in the injection pipe. Will usually bleed copious fuel with the cap nut loose but not fire. If you don't get fuel, chances are the IP is bad, that sleeve and plunger set is either leaking badly, out of time, or the cam lobe is shot in the IP. I would guess, personally, that the pressure valve seal is bad.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I have been real ill but I now have the AC unit off so I could get at the tensioner. I will never put that monstrosity back on probably pick up 4 seconds in the quarter mile without it. Don’t need AC here any ways If it doesn’t rain tomorrow I will try to determine just what is going on with the timing chain you have each giving me some good hints and leads to track down. It tears at my heart having such a beautiful car that has a stick shift. But not being able to drive it is almost too much to bear I want this puppy running as my daily driver I think I am in love.
Dave S

Mattdave,

You had me confused for a while when you said you were turning the engine with the key. I was wondering what key you were using. I finally figured you meant you were turning the engine with the starter.

For this type of job, you have to turn the engine by the crank bolt because you have to precisely align the cam timing marks. If the engine turns hard, that is a sign of an engine with little wear. Easiest way is have one person turn the engine and another watch the timing marks.

After you retime the camshaft, always turn engine by hand at least 2 revolutions. If the timing is off and you crank it with the starter, you might break something like the cam towers, valves or camshaft. With your timing being off as far as it is. I'm surprised that the valves haven't hit the pistons already.

P E H

I got a little time to work on the car. I have the AC bracket off I am not putting it back on I have no bolts for the water pump I will have to get some that fit without the AC bracket from the junk yard. The thermostat housing is off. Should I remove the entire chain tensioner 2 bolts or just the big bolt with the spring and part that pushes against the chain? I will mark the chain and cam shaft sprocket so I can put them back the way they were if need be. With the timing off as described in this thread if I put the crank at TDS then rotate the cam with out moving the chain till the cam shaft marks line up is that going to give me the desired result or will it just put the valves into the pistons?
Thanks in advanse Dave S

Remove the whole tensioner.

Crank engine around by hand until none of the rocker arms are under compression. There is a point where this is true, TDC if I remember correctly. Unbolt the rocker arm towers and remove the rocker arm carriers. This will free up the cam and prevent the valves hitting the pistons while you are working.

Crank engine around by hand until TDC is on the mark on the compression stroke on #! cylinder, double check cam -- notch should be to the left of the "pointer" on the cam tower.

Use a large screwdriver to preven the cam from turning and remove the cam sproket bolt. Pull sprocket off cam, and while holding tension on the chain, carefully walk the chain one tooth to the left on the sproket. Don't drop the sproket, it will be oily.

Line the cam back up and install the sprocket and bolt. Rotate engine a couple times, then check the timing. The notch should be just about perfectly centered when the pointer is at TDC on the crank. My new chain was about 2 degrees late, don't expect it to be right on.

If it's now early, it was in the right spot and the chain is worn out, replace it.

Check the injection timting by the drip method (24 degrees BTDC the fuel flow should drop off dramatically).

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!