Can anyone tell me whether the Thermostat housing has to be removed to replace this short section of Coolant hose between water pump and thermostar housing hose

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

I have never replaced this hose without removing the thermostat housing. Don't forget to have a new gasket for the t'stat housing to block.

I'm not saying it can't be done without removing the housing but I don't see how you can do it without tearing up the new section of hose putting it in.

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Jim

I had the same question when I was replacing hoses on my cars. I couldn't figure out a way to change it w/o pulling the housing....pulling the housing isn't hard, just have the necesary gaskets around before starting.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

I agree, I think the housing needs to come off unless you are replacing the water pump. I figured when I rebuilt my engine, I would leave the thermostat right where it was because I don't think it leaked before I disassembled it. I figured wrong, it leaked with no pressure at all. When I removed the thermostat, I just couldn't believe how hard and cruddy that gasket was. Found some serious corrosion in that aluminum tube where that 2" hose goes too. Swapped it with the one from the other car, and checked both thermostats at the same time.

if it is the original then the hose likely has a metal liner in it so the t-stat housing needs to come off. i ended up putting 2 new clamps on it to see if it
would stop the leak first and was successful.

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

whunter has done a DIY for this see:-

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=262523

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I remember the EGR valve getting in the way of one of the bolts holding on the housing. IIRC Vicegrips worked on it from the side. Be careful on those bolts though, they have a tendency to snap easily after years of constant heating/cooling.

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

If vice grips will work, why won't a wrench work?

I have a two foot section of that hose if anyone needs a piece.

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08 R320 CDI current

Past
95 E420
87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

PM sent!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Not enough clearance between the bolt head and the neck part of the housing. A very thin box wrench would probably work, open end as well if the jaws are thin. The needle nose vice grips got aboout 1/8 turn at a time IIRC. I was also limited on tools and doing the job out in the street, in hindsight I imagine there were a lot of easier ways

__________________
TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth