Help is needed. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jake1222 · #1 10-05-2004, 05:45 PM

I need the cooler line for my 1981 300SD from the transmission to the flexible line into the radiator. I DO NOT need that flexible line just the rigid one from the transmission to that flexible one. This is on the right side(passenger side) of the transmission. Mine's leaking really bad under the clip that holds it to the upper oil pan. TIA.

I've already posted this in the parts section here but I figured someone here may have a part number available if not the part itself.

Thanks, Again.

dieseldiehard · #2 10-05-2004, 05:53 PM

I've seen this line fail in the same place when there is no rubber cushion between the line and the clamp.
The simplest way to get going again is have the line brazed (hard soldered) with a sleeve around the pipe to stop the leak. A new line will be more costly and special order from the dealer.
Wrap it with a piece of thin rubber or better yet use an Adel (MS21919) type clamp so it won't rub and fail again.
Dieseldiehard
1971 220 (gas) 4-spd manual 106441
1979 300TD w/ ’85 turbo engine 295530
1983 300D 243280
1985 300TD 217300
1987 300D 258230

whunter · #3 10-05-2004, 05:56 PM

If it is more than one inch from the joints.
Follow the graphic.
#1. Remove OEM tube.
#2. Measure one inch or one and three quarter’s inch from joint and cut tube.
#3. Take cut section to local parts-R-us, ask for a roll of bulk tube matching your sample.
#4. While at parts-R-us, ask for two compression unions matched to your tube sample.
#5. Unroll bulk tube and bend to match your section of OEM tube, and then cut to length.
#6. Install compression union to joints.
#7. Install joints on car.
#8. Feed the new center section into position; rebend as needed for best fit.
#9. When you are sure the center section is ok, install tube into rear compression fitting.
#10. Recheck how well the tube fits and clears everything.
#11. Install tube in front compression fitting.
#12. Clean the area, tubes and ground till dry, put cardboard under the joints if you must.
#13. Get a STRONG flashlight.
#14. Start the car and watch for any leaks.
#15. Go for a short drive, 2 - 3 miles.
#16. Inspect for leaks.
#17. Big pat on back, job is done....

engatwork · #4 10-05-2004, 05:58 PM

Oilslick is taking some of these cars apart - contact him.

oilslick

jake1222 · #5 10-05-2004, 06:02 PM

dieseldiehard - Thanks, I was thinking taht's what I might have to do unless I can find one used.

whunter - It's at the first clamp holding it onto the upper oil pan from the front of the car.

engatwork - Thanks, I'll take a look.

whunter · #6 10-05-2004, 06:34 PM

just finished writing it.

You can repair the problem in short order.

jake1222 · #7 10-05-2004, 06:44 PM

whunter,

Couldn't I just do as dieseldiehard suggested and use hard solder to close the hole up or is there more pressure there than I thought? I do like your suggestion but I already have this on hand and I do NOT have the compression fittings or replacement tubing yet. I have thought about doing it this way because I wasn't sure of the pressure there and because of the solder getting into the tubing and clogging it up. Thanks for ya'lls help though, I have off work until next Tuesday and I WILL have this car on the road by the end of my little vacation. Hopefully without anymore leaks

.

whunter · #8 10-06-2004, 12:59 AM

Hello jake1222
I would never lead or tin solder a transmission line.
Silver solder and Brazing will work very well.
You must remove and clean the tube, make a patch to cover the hole, fold and form it to the tube, then Silver solder or Braze it.
Compression fittings have less risk of restriction or contamination.

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