So, just to recap, since I'm looking for a 300sd myself:

I'd want to make sure the Tranny is working good, other mechanicals/engine (obvoiusly), no rust, AC converted (is this a necessity if I want AC, if it's not converted does that mean that it's going to go out while I own it most likely?), and I've heard front end work. Is this also something that should be a necessity? Do all these cars have the ball joints and such go to hell somtime after 100K? Or is it possible that the AC won't go bad and the front end will be fine if they haven't been replaced?

I don't want costly repairs down the road, even if I can do it myself. That why I'm asking, is it a "necessity" that these things have been done before I purchase one myself?

Thanks all.

B

Actually your a/c works better when it has not been converted to R134. Mine has been converted and does not work nearly as well. I think you lose something 15% cooling when converted due to the condensor capacity or something like that. I'm no expert-by doing a search here you can find out the specifics.

My '85td has 147k on the clock and no front end problems yet. There are no grease fittings on the ball joints either. Less to do when changing oil. They are the originals.

speaking of oil change-you'll love changing it on these cars. No more climbing under the car. The drain plug is easily accessable just by kneeling. It's in the front of the pan and the filter is in the engine compartment, drivers side, on the firewall.

Cheers,

bill

Unless it still has the plastic sound panals under their! Then you have to either take them off or suck it out the dipstick.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Plastic sound panels on an SD, Hattie? Since when?

Maybe not I know my SDL has a nice set.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Costly repairs:

Transmission
Engine (low compression and/or excessive oil consumption)
Differential
Air conditioning
Body Work and Paint

Not excessively costly repairs:

Pads, rotors, calipers, shocks, ball joints, control arm bushings, tie rods, center link.
Speedometer
Radio
Power windows
Power seats
Seat springs
Switches
Fuses
Belts
Hoses
Water Pump
Rear axles
Rear springs
Vacuum pump
Setting valves
Cruise control amplifer and actuator
Sunroof
Power antenna
Door checks
Door alignment


The key is to purchase a vehicle that does not get you into costly repairs. You cannot purchase one of these vehicles that will not get you into "not excessively costly repairs" to some degree. The longer you own it, the more likely that you will be doing just about everything on that list. So, our collective advice is to either be willing and able to work on a 20 year old vehicle to accomplish all of the "not excessively costly repairs", or, purchase a good used Honda or Toyota, five to six years old, 60-80K on the clock, which will likely require less attention on a monthly basis.

I'm probably going to get hell for this, but I thought one of the reasons people loved these cars so much was because of their reliability. But if you have to work on it monthly, how is that reliable?

But then again, I guess if it really is little things like windows and water pumps an such, then it's kinda just tinkering. And I guess the demographic of people who buy these cars (at least on this site) are into tinkering and working on their stuff. So I am seeing a disporportionate amount of labor performed on these cars.

I guess it's one thing if you are working on it because you want to or feel the need too, like Hatterasguy and his SDL. It's another thing entirely if you must work on it in order to keep it going down the road. I don't want to work on it alot becuase it's necessary to keep it down the road. I don't mind if it's tinkering and it's on my own accord, not the cars.

B

I really appreciate the list. It will help me out alot. But you did mention as not being too costly. But I remeber a post just a little while ago about someone having his mechanic quote him $4000 to fix his front end, and someone else said it would cost something like $2000 to fix it himself. Am I out of line to think that is costly?

Thanks agian,

B

Pads, rotors, calipers, tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, center link:

Total for all parts: about $850. if you get the calipers at a good rebuilt price.
If a mechanic did it all, it would run about double that.

The fellow who had his mechanic quote him $3500. to fix his front end has, unfortunately, a mechanic who tried to rip him off.

Sooner or later, all of the aforementioned parts will need to be done. A 20 year old M/B has front end parts that wear out. Either the PO has done the work, or you will do the work. Again, if you feel that you do not want to perform these tasks, or, that the cost is too high, then a Honda or a Toyota is in your future.

You are correct in stating that many of us are fastidious about our vehicles and that we probably would not let bad ball joints or rotors go too long without a proper replacement. However, there are many examples of Mercedes diesels that have had NOTHING done to them in the last 20 years. Their front ends are shot, the windows don't work, the climate control system is a disaster, nobody ever changed the transmission or rear axle fluid, etc. These vehicles will still start up in the morning and get you down the road. However, why would you want to own such a vehicle? The pleasure of these vehicles is when all equipment and components are functioning like the day the vehicle left the factory. I don't think that any of us can get to this level, but we strive for it, to a greater or lesser degree.

I agree with Brian. I've driven my car 40k miles since I've had it and the only "necessary" repair was the starter motor. That's just because it wouldn't crank when hot, so I'd have to sack the solenoid a couple good times to allow it to crank. That was always fun with the girlfriend, "ok, now try to start it, I'll try hitting it again". good old times...
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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All the cars you are considering are fine. I have owned one of each.

The 240D is not an old mans car, My 19 year old 5"11 blond daughter owns one. And loves it, Low power, yes but you learn to drive the individual car, this argument means we should all have 6 liter twin turbos in all are cars, but that is another post

The 300D turbo or non turbo, The non turbo is a little more powerful 240D. the Turbo is a faster car but you have to learn how to drive it due to the turbo lag.

The SD, I owned an SDL which is a bit different, More bells and switches. It's a great car, As I said a few more bells and switches to break and a little more complicated to work on due to all the bells and switches being packed in there, compaired to a 240D.

What your looking for is the best car that you can find for the money. I think your already running across this. A car may ssem fine but when you get close it's trashed or rusted. The right 240D will be a better car compared to a trashed out 300SD. Or the right SD will be better than a rusted 300DT

Keep your head clear while looking. Don't get your self in a rush to buy. The right car will come along. I would be looking for any good 123 or 126 that will be trouble free for you. Looking for a 20 year old car in the NE will be a challange. Doable but it will require time.

If you find the RIGHT 240D you will be happy with it. If you find the wrong 240D and it cost you a lot of money you will never be happy. Substitue 300D, 300DT or 300SD. Look at the post on the 380SL that the guy in Washington DC bought. So look for a good car that will not cost a lot to fix. Be ready to work on the car. It will be 20+ years old. And any car that age will need work.

My 82 300TD was purchased in 1990 and I have really been happy with the car. The second 300TD I bought I lost $5000 getting rid of it 2 years later. It was never right, and I learned to hate it. I was to impatent and thought it would "work out".

Again be patient, wait for the right car to come along and you wil be happy.

Ive owned all the models your thinking of and enjoyed them all. Untill they needed a lot of money and work, then no car is enjoyable.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

That 300D I was supposed to go see...

We called the guy, and he didnt call back. We called 2 hours later...and he didnt call back.

We were supposed to call him this morning, and meet him at 11, so he has no excuse for not answering.

That means out of the 3 cars, 2 are garbage, and 1 is a possibility, and only if we can see the car. These people make me sick.

Patience, my son. 9 out of 10 are garbage that you do not want to own. The entire e-bay experience is dedicated to dealers pushing a bunch of crap on the unsuspecting public.

You need to invest a good bit of time and energy to learn about these cars so that you can quickly reject 8 out of the 10 and then, after some consideration, reject the 9th.

Then, when the 10th comes along, it might cost a bit more than the others, but, you will know a good value when you see it.

Remember, and remember well:

There is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes Benz.

I know quite a bit about the 240D autos. Theres one sitting in my driveway, although my brother is usually out driving it.

I put some money on the BMW so the owner could hold it. I WAS going to buy it. The owner just decided to stick me, or he really hasent gotten the title yet. The 300D on ebay was looking great, but once again, the owner never comes through. I was going to look at a car, but some guy put money on it the same day. Its the owners that are slowing me down.

BTW, I didnt choose to buy a cheap mercedes. If I had the 6k to buy a perfect 240, you know I would. I also dont want to blow all my money on a car...I have other stuff to pay for in a few years.

Boy Brain, you really nailed it right on the head

Cheers,

Bill