Topography effects one thing in the fuel system = suction required to move fuel.
Sounds like a leak or bad lift pump.

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Unless you find the fuel filters substantially clogged and the strainer substantially clogged, the tank is fine.

Now, if the fuel filters, when originally changed, cured the problem, then you must keep an eye on them and change them when the problem recurs.

It could be a situation where you have bad fuel that loads up the filters in a short period of time. This is not common, but, it could be the case if you continually fill up at a station that does not move quite a bit of diesel.

The next time the issue occurs, change the secondary fuel filter yourself, and see if the problem goes away for you.

If not, then it's time to see what the fuel pressure from the lift pump is.

I cannot see any possibility of the tank causing the issue if your strainer is perfectly clean.

Is it possible that the vehicle was sitting for quite a period of time prior to your purchase?

Danny,
There is also the possibility of an obstruction in the fuel line from the tank to the lift pump. This could be as result of delamination of one of the rubber hoses, or a kink in the metal fuel line.

If there is a leak in one of the rubber fuel lines, you could be sucking air into the fuel delivery line. This will give a similar symptom to a clogged fuel filter, but would occur in most cases of high load, unless triggered by a tank vent issue..

If your tank vent is blocked, you could be having fuel starvation issues after a certain distance travelled. If you have this problem again, stop and loosen the fuel tank cap. Any sound of rushing air indicates that the tank vent is clogged. Check under the drivers side rear wheel well for a metal fuel line terminating in a rubber device. This is the tank vent. Clean the rubber device and run an old speedo cable thru the metal fuel line to check for and clear any obstructions.

__________________
Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

OK, Thanks, to all of you.

Brian, I did replace the secondary fuel filters a few weeks back with some improvement in startup and initial performance, but then it still lost power after a couple of miles.... That's when I decided to go after the strainer. It likely did sit for awhile before I purchased it (and even after I bought it I never drove it a whole lot).

In any case, I will put my car back together and see how it runs. I will then look at the issue of the venting and the pressure in the fuel lines. Venting sounds like the easiest to look at first....

Another aside is that the mileage has never been that great, I noticed on this site some folks reporting 30+, or at least 28 +. Mine has been more like 20-22 at best, so something's up (maybe its partly the diesel out here in CA).

I also agree with Tony on this. If the vent is clogged, you may lose power and, sometimes, it may not start.

I had this happen to the SD. Cranked it for 20 seconds and not even a hint of fire. Opened the fuel filler cap and it started right up. I wouldn't have believed it unless I saw it personally. I haven't had a chance to find the clogged vent yet, but, the problem has not resurfaced. So, it can be considered an intermittent thing.

Well, back to my car.

I decided to check the vent hose, so I ran compressed air through it from under the car (I pulled the connector off where the rubber hose meets the metal hose). Although I placed a bucket at the end of the vent hose, I don't think any junk blew into the bucket and I heard a clear line.

I then went the opposite direction (into the tank) and closed the fuel cap, so that the air could only come back through the feed and return line sockets. I felt air coming out of them, so my venting seems OK. I then put all the pieces back (I did cut my rubber fuel line by 2" or so because I noticed it kinking some before it connected to the long metal one).

Once all the lines were back in place I poured the 12 or so gallons of diesel back into the tank. I used a filter mesh that came with the funnel I bought to try to remove any suspended material. Since the fuel's been sitting in the jugs for a couple of weeks I noticed some bits of slime and a few black specks near the bottom of most of the containers, which I avoided as much as I could. I also just treated several of the containers of diesel with biobor, so it should be well mixed into my tank.

Happily the car started up after I primed the filters. A 4 mile test drive didn't show any loss of power, but, as we all know, time is the ultimate judge.

One more question on this topic - I wanted to remove the hat tray and the first aid box in the hat tray so as to access the fuel tank from above. How do we remove that tray? The only 2 screws I saw seem to only hold the latch for each of the two trays. I don't want to break my panelling to get in there. Thanks!

Danny,
there are 2 screws in the first aid kit compartment which allow access to the top of the fuel tank and fuel gauge sender.
I don't know how to, or even if it is possible to, remove the whole back shelf.
Tony

__________________
Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

Danny,

Its easy to remove the rear shelf: If you have an acetylene torch. LOL
I.E. The shelf is an integral part of the body.

P E H

Sorry,

I didn't make myself clear. I don't want to remove the bulkhead shelf, but just the finished liner that sits on top of it. I don't seem to have the 2 screws that Tony suggested exist in the first aid compartment, but I suspect that beneath the liner I will either find the screws or else I will see a means to pull the first aid compartment out so that I can access the top of the fuel tank. This may be a trivial task, but my tendency will be to do the wrong thing and damage the liner or the interior trim to the car and regret it later....

Thanks.

I need to take out my fuel screen but can't find the proper tool.

Went to five garages in the Biloxi area and no one has one that large. Have been on phone and computer for days looking.

Thanks for your help.

I used a cheap Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket set. I believe it was about $50.

This may work:http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200322603&R=200322603
Or this:http://www.shop.com/op/~17_Pc_Jumbo_Crowfoot_Wrench_Set_Metric_20mm_to_46mm-prod-15500666
Or if you already have a 1/2" drive socket set:http://www.shop.com/op/~46mm_Front_Wheel_Bearing_Retainer_Socket_1_2_Drive_Impact-prod-15505972

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I find it funny that there is no special Mercedes tool for this purpose that retails for about $119.95.
Usually such is the case.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

I went to a tool rental place and rented an SAE socket was a 1&3/4 in
might try that
JJM

I believe the part number is 126-589-00-01-00 46mm wrench, drive shaft, I was quoted $124.24 with 3 to 4 days delivery from one of my local mercedes dealers.