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#1
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My car is dead. Whats going on??
Lastnight my 300DT was running fine, I checked my coolant and fluid levels appx. 2 miles before shutting down the car for the night. NOW heres my problem.
Engine wont turn over, electronic accessories do not work- no ignition buzz, no radio etc. Coolant level: ZERO. (Although I checked the coolant level 2 miles ago and it was perfect.) Checked oil level and its fine, and the head has no symptoms of cracking or stress. So basically within the past 2 miles the car has been driven the coolant level has gone from being full and healthy to completely empty. The starter won't engage and the battery seems to be dead. As always any help/advice appreciated. Plan on towing the car into the shop on monday. What a nice start to my weekend.
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Nate 1995 E420 1992 BMW 525i 1984 300D Turbo sold 1993 Volvo 244 sold 1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P! "The details are not details. They make the product." -Charles Eames www.cbs.nu |
#2
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Divide and conquer
Sounds like you have at least two problems, one electrical, and one in the cooling system.
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Work on the electrical problem first. Once that is solved, you can add fluid and find the cooling system leak. Best Regards, Jim |
#3
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leak
could be no actual leak. if you recently added there could have been a pocket of air. i would go ahead and add and see how much it takes. then get it started and drive carefully while monitering water level.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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Have you checked for a bad battery connection? It is possible that the battery cables are not making contact at all.Try taking off the cables and cleaning the contact area with sandpaper then replacing them. While the battery is disconnected you could take a wrench and check that the other end of the cables are tight, where they go on the starter and the ground. Do not do this with the battery connected, and do not overtighten as these are copper bolts and will not stand too much torque.
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#5
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cooling
also forgot to mention that when cold the thermostat will be in one position. often after warming up when it opens you need to add to fill the void created with it closed.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#6
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maybe
Coolant leaked out of block heater on to hot starter wire draining all juice from battery.
www.benzbonz.biz marty |
#7
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Chances are the two conditions are completely unrelated. The coolant expansion tank is just that, it is there for expansion. It's possible that when the engine was hot the coolant expanded into the tank, when it cooled it contracted and sucked back into the radiator. If the radiator is full then just wait until you get the engine running again to check the level in the expansion tank when it is hot and add if necessary.
The electrical problem can be as simple as a poor connection at the battery. That is where I would check first, make sure the cables are tight and the contacts are clean and free of corrosion. Make sure the battery is not dead and if it is the type that has a way to check the electrolyte level that you check it. If you have no power anywhere it is probably either the battery, cables or ignition switch at fault. That is where you must start.
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz ![]() |
#8
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Thanks to all for the responses!
As for the electrical problem: I can rule out a bad battery as it was replaced with a new one no more than 6 months ago. So, I will check connections and alternator/regulator etc. As for the possible coolant leak; Once I solve possible battery/alternator power probelms and I have power, I'll start car and see if the expansion tank fills itself back up with the coolant that should be in there, and add any coolant if necessary. I should probably have the cooling system pressure checked for leaks. Will post results tomorrow eve. Thanks again!
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Nate 1995 E420 1992 BMW 525i 1984 300D Turbo sold 1993 Volvo 244 sold 1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P! "The details are not details. They make the product." -Charles Eames www.cbs.nu |
#9
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While I would not think a six month old battery is likely to be bad, I would not rule it out simply because it is only six months old. Don't asssume anything. Check it. I've had three month old batteries that were bad! I'm sure others here on the forum have had the same experience. This has happened to me twice over thirty-some years. I think it unlikely that it is bad, but check the battery, and check everything else. The battery could be bad because the alternator or regulator is bad.
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Mike 2000 SL500 22,000 miles 1981 300CD 188,000 miles 1979 450 SEL 266,000 miles 2005 Cadillac CTS 25,000 miles |
#10
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Yes, never assume anything is good, especially not a battery. It is always the thing which you assumed could not be bad that turns out to be the cuprit item.
Also, before you start the car check the radiator to make sure it is at least filled, then, after it heats up see where the expansion tank level is. Don't assume there is coolant in the radiator either. Remember, when you assume you make an "ass" out of "u" and "me"
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz ![]() |
#11
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Power problem solved.
Culprit: Bad battery cables. Removed and replaced. Next up; cooling system.
__________________
Nate 1995 E420 1992 BMW 525i 1984 300D Turbo sold 1993 Volvo 244 sold 1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P! "The details are not details. They make the product." -Charles Eames www.cbs.nu |
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