In case you didn't know brake lines are supposed to be double flared.
If that bubble tool does that then nevermind. I never heard of one of them before.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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You need two spring compressors, a catchers mask, a Kevlar vest and a wiffel ball bat. The easiest way is to put the car up on jack stands and lower the sub-frame. That's how I did it on my SD. By the time you take loose the shocks there is no compression on the springs at all.

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Jim
82 300SD saved from scrap yard, 86 front clip,85 500SEL rear end,86 wheels.

Here are a couple of pictures of the rear suspension out of the car. Notice the top of the coil spring is not pushing on anything. Replacing the subframe will be difficult. Keeping the coil springs aligned and evenly compressing will be the trick.
This is for the TD so it shows the struts not the shocks.

Dave

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Say what, Dave??

The top of the coil spring supports the body, until you lower the subframe sufficiently to completely unload the spring. Probably another 3 inches or so.

dannym,

The type of brake line flare used on the MB is a European "Bubble" flare that is formed in a single swaging operation. I needed to buy the tool designed specifically to form this flare. My standard SAE flaring tool does indeed require a two step operation to swage the "double" flare but this type end will not work with MB brake components.

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'85 300D 276,000 mi

Skull,

This is a job that I planned to do on my 85 sedan but never did it. I now have an 84 wagon, and fuel lines are different. I have brand new pre-bent green OE factory fuel lines and some OE green brake lines (I can't remember which brake lines) and some of the brackets and rubber bushings....all of which I never installed. I can't remember what I paid for them, but I wouldn't ask much. Let me know if you are interested.

Mark

(I'm in Boston, and travel to CT regularly)

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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)

I didn't realize you were in CT.

I travel to CT every week (Newington) to my machine shops.

If you want, you can meet me and rent the compressor for $30. Right now it's out in Indiana but should return in a couple of weeks.

It's far less risky with the correct tool.

Brian,

I really appreciate the offer of the spring compressor. I think the work you are doing to make tools available to forum members is both a great idea and commendable. If I was just doing the trailing arms or the lower control arm bushings in the front, I would take you up on the offer. (I already did my entire front suspension system, including the LCA bushings.) Despite the apparent universal opinion that removing the subframe/trailing arm/differential assembly without the use of a spring compressor is insane/dangerous/stupid, I prefer the approach I previously outlined. I believe the extension of the trailing arms with the shocks removed will leave the springs in a near fully extended condition. I have a plan that I'm convinced will permit easy and safe removal and reassembly. I will explain the details, along with both positive and negative aspects, after I've finished the job.

MarkM,

I sent you a PM about your offer of the parts. Thanks.

Tim

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'85 300D 276,000 mi

what I meant to say

The top of the springs are , as you said, against the spring receivers. So dropping the assembly and then trying to position it and get it to mate just right while compressing the springs is going to be very difficult.

Yea! that's what I meant to say

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Has anyone heard from Scull???

I have fuel lines to install and am slowely collecting my thoughts on how to go about this. I am keen on removing all of the whole shebang and renewing rubber parts and rust proofing the trailing arms etc. At quick glance it looks like 2 spring compressors would be the way to approach this but am eager to hear all manners and means.

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

Has anybody ever heard of Fedhillusa.com? They have an alloy tubing system that is cheaper than stainless & easier to work with. They also rent the metric double bubble flare tool. I think that's the route I'm going to take. It's alot of work to pull apart the entire back of the car to replace with steel lines. Also, one of my trailing arms rotted. Can you believe that? Paul.
'84 300CD restoring.

on a new car like an '84 too! I intend to ferry my family around in this car and if I get it back togehter before they are driving their own cars (kids are currently 6&8) I want to have every confidence in its reliability/safety...

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

Rob, I presume that you wish to remove the subframe, in it's entirety?

If so, then one spring compressor is needed to remove the springs.

The axles are removed and the calipers are removed.

The subframe is held at three points. Two at the subframe bushings up forward and one at the differential mount at the rear.

The only difficulty is lowering the subframe safely. Due to its triangular configuration, you probably need three supporting jacks. The subframe is fairly heavy, especially with the diff attached.

I've never fully lowered these. Maybe someone who has done it can comment.

Yup that's my intent....I've just started gazaing into this and would like to take advantage of the dissassembled state to replace & rehab any other appropriate components - while I'm in the neighborhood.....Currently the car is on 4 jack stands and the fuel tank is out, the exhaust is off from the down pipe back and Now is about the time for me to start assembling all the bits and pieces for the work...

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles

I would LOVE to hear some comments from some folks who have done it!!!

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Rob M
Norwich, VT USA
1980 240D Euro delivery 4 speed manual silver/blue
~160K miles