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  #1  
Old 07-12-2005, 03:30 PM
smoker
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Cost to rebuild 603 engine & head

I found a '87 300sdl that's been overheated. The seller also said it has no compression. Other than that, she is in good shape!

My question is simple: Assuming I perform all the labor, outside of machine shop work, what will it cost me to make this baby purr again? Ballpark?

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  #2  
Old 07-12-2005, 03:38 PM
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An seriously overheated engine would likely cause a cracked head, but not usually a complete loss of compression. It may be that there is other damage as well.
Broken Camshaft? Broken Timimg Chain? Who knows.
Does the engine turn over at all?
If there is no compression it should spin on the Starter no problem unless there is major internal damage.

As for the cost to repair, how long is a piece of string

A complete new head job is probably about $2500, a complete rebuilt engine could be as much as $8k-10k.
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2005, 03:56 PM
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Hmm...overheat=cracked head=coolant in cylinder=hydrolock=bad, bad things=new/used short block
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2005, 04:10 PM
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Well, since you are saying you will perform all the labor, and if the block, crank and rods are OK then the cost could run as low as around $1000 materials. That implies a used head but the chances of finding one that doesn't have cracks is very unlikely, as well as avoiding the infamous #14 head. This is based on a complete (loaded) head without having it skim cut for assurance that it is flat. These heads tend to warp and cause the head gasket to fail if not perfectly flat. You take some chances this way of course.
You may as well have a complete head job w/ new valve guides and seals and valve seats ground, that adds about $400 (plus shipping two ways?). If you wanted a new head it will set you back about $2K - last time I looked for one about 18 months ago that is what they cost I suspect the price is higher now. Adsit wants $1600 for a bare head reconditioned.
I am in process of rebuilding a 603 engine and may have a possibility of discount on a multiple parts order. PM me.
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2005, 04:21 PM
smoker
 
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Okay, I buy a new head with everything attached (valves, cam, etc) That cost me around $2k. Now, what about the block? New rings & pistons?

I basically want to go into this deal with a worse case scenario outlook.

I guess the next question is: Is it worth it?
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2005, 04:35 PM
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Roughly, it's not worth more than a similar model in good running shape MINUS the cost of a good used complete running engine MINUS what a competent local shop would charge to do the swap MINUS some amount for the overall hassle and understanding that it can't be road tested for critical things like brakes, steering, suspension, transmission, even A/C operation.
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Old 07-12-2005, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Burton
Roughly, it's not worth more than a similar model in good running shape MINUS the cost of a good used complete running engine MINUS what a competent local shop would charge to do the swap MINUS some amount for the overall hassle and understanding that it can't be road tested for critical things like brakes, steering, suspension, transmission, even A/C operation.

$7000. (less if the mileage is above 150K) - $2200. (includes shipping) - $1200. - $ 1500. = $2100.
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Old 07-13-2005, 12:43 AM
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Thumbs up

Well some sellers are fools as in my case... I'd really look it over well, you may have a smokin' deal or a total turd there. Heck, even the A/C blows cool in mine still (it's a tad low only)... I installed a new HVAC unit, relay, and fuse.

I'm waiting on tie rods still, better be here on Friday! I'm ready to drive mine.
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  #9  
Old 07-13-2005, 09:04 AM
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well,

exactly what does no compression mean? low? or none. none is hard to imagine. that would be wo injectors or some other major component. does it run? can it be driven? given all the above questions, you cant really say wo tearing it apart and looking at the damage. could easily be confined to the head.

if the bottom end is good... and in my experience they usually are. you might get by with a head job (always fun). good chance you will need a head or to have it repaired. i just spent about $2500 for a head gasket and valve job on my 350sdl with 140,000 mies. i had a good head, so if it is cracked you may spend another 500 to 1000. if the bottom end is bad, then a lot more.

finding a good used motor may be a good alternative at that point.
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  #10  
Old 07-13-2005, 06:00 PM
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Engine

I see you're in Santa Cruz.
Call Silver Star in Rancho Cordova (near Sacramento), 1-800-783-4911, ask for Mike. They only deal in Mercedes.
I was going to by a 86 SDL a couple of years ago that threw a rod, but they wanted to much for the car, so let it go. Anyway Silver Star wanted about $2500 Exchange (rod threw block or not) with a warrenty back then. I forget what the core charge was, but it might be worth the charge for spare parts.
I bought an engine from them for my 85 300D (617) about 5 yrs. ago. The 85 had #2 rod through the block when I bought the car. But was in excellent shape and worthwhile to get an engine for.
Oh, and a small pickup will get the engine home.
Let us know what you decide.
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  #11  
Old 07-13-2005, 07:40 PM
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I think a new (not rebuilt) 22 head is about $1,800 bare. With new valves, cam, lifters ect I would expect the total to be at or above $3k.

Just to give you an idea of a few of you options:
Used engine $1k-$2k
Rebuilt engine $6k-$8k (New head, rebuilt IP, ect. A proper rebuild not a cheap ring job.) Metric Motors seems to be a recommended rebuilder.
Crate motor from your local MB dealer $12k-$13k.

Actually by MB standards these are cheap motors to rebuild. An M119 V8 would cost you close to $20k and I bet a V12 would over $30k.

Pistons alone for a 603 are like $1,800.

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