Does anyone have experience & lessons learned from removing the fuse box on a 126? I'm replacing the front sway bar on my 83 300 SD because a previous weld repair on the end has broken. I have the fuse box free from its rear support and front mounting screws, and the inner "tray" of fuses and relays free, but I can't figure out exactly what to do next. There isn't enough slack in the wire bundles to let the fuse box move far enough to get the sway bar past it, so I'm afraid I will have to disconnect the various multi-pin connectors on the wire bundles and feed them back into the fuse box to free it to move. Is there a better way? I would really appreciate a tip on any known "gotchas" here, as I'm sure there will be some cable runs that are a serious PIA. Thanks, Mack

Only tip I can give is to move slowly, carefully, and tag all those wires that you remove. Most should have a tag, but make backups as the originals are brittle. I think you will have to remove the wires and relay holders from the upper tray and pull the box depending on which area you are trying to access. If you are going to reweld the mount, make sure you aren't melting those wires either!
I only had to pull the top tray for my project so I couldn't help you with pulling the lower box. The only thing I can think of that would be a problem is the relay bases. Getting those past the loom holes might present a problem. I can't remember if the back of the lower box is open to the firewall or not but if it is there will be no problem.
Good luck!

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1983 Mercedes 300SD
1987 Mercedes 300SDL
2001 VW Passat 2.8 AWD
2007 OM642 Jeep WK 4x4

The service manual instructs to remove the brake booster and master cylider to access the sway bar bushing on that side. Personally I'd sooner do that than spend the rest of my life chasing down electrical gremilins. I have plenty of those already..

Thanks Guys -
The shop manual is pretty vague and superficial in its treatment of this miserable job. I have the booster/Master Cyl assy off and am working on unhooking the wiring bundles that run forward - I think they are my best hope for getting the slack needed to move the entire fuse box up far enough to clear a path for the sway bar. Otherwise it will be the nightmare of pulling wires from under the dashboard. The front sway bar must be the first component installed after the body was assembled... I will take digital pictures and make drawings/diagrams as I unhook wires & plugs - roger the potential for electrical gremlins that I don't need. At least the expansion valve isn't buried under the dash. Thanks, Mack