I changed the fluid/filter/gasket on my 82 300D and now it's leaking more than ever. Should I have put some sort of silicon sealant on the gasket? If I over-torqued the drain pan bolts, would that make a difference?

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1982 Silver 300DT

needed. yes if you over torque you can dimple the pan and ruin it all. or the gasket can fold over. if you over torqued it youneed to remove it and straighten the edge of the pan and reinstall.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Goes on dry.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

If you over torque it you can split the gasket.

i have found that 7Nm is what works for the torque

Wellll, I finally got around to pulling the AT pan again-the curved part of the gasket around the 2 bolts in the center was split down the middle-I assume I did not correctly align the gasket originally and then I over torqued the sucker.
Anyone know of a place east of Seattle that stocks these babies?
Thanks.

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1982 Silver 300DT

throw out your old one?

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Nope. It's brand new except for the splits in the middle...
A new one at Napa costs $12.

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1982 Silver 300DT

Well crap, I installed the new gasket, but there's now (only) a single drip leak with about a 5 second delay between. I suspect the pan lip at that point must be bent to allow the seal to break. I tried to straighten out the lip, but not really knowing what I'm doing, I wasn't entirely successful.
At 7nm torqued it drips with a 3 second inteval, so I bumped it up to around 10 or so and now have a 5 second interval. I'm afraid to bump it up anymore and risk splitting the new gasket (again). What would you do?

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1982 Silver 300DT

use a drift/punch to reverse dimple the bolts holes in the pan.

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Cheers,
Robert

the only way is to take the pan off again and meticulously straighten it. or buy a new pan.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

and buy a new pan; a whole lot easier in the long run.

Good luck,
Jim

Never use any gasket sealer on the tranny pan. I concur to use a new pan if yours is damaged.

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1981 300D 147k
1998 VW Jetta Tdi 320k
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 141k
1979 300D 234k (sold)
1984 300D "Astor" 262k(sold)
Mercedes How-To and Repair Pictorials
I love the smell of diesel smoke in my hair

I replaced the at pan and the gasket (again). There is still a small leak in the same spot. I've quadruple-checked that area for any type of residue on all the connecting surfaces-they're clean!
Now what? It sure was alot easier of a job on my old VW Bug.

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1982 Silver 300DT