Which one is better? HELP!

[Tiredofagasser]

I have been reading, learning, and taking notes about MB diesels for over a year now. I just cant seem to get one question answered though, do I want a 300SD/L or a 350SD/L? Whats the difference? There seems to be sooo much info on both- some of which I think is just the authors point of view- that I feel awesomely overwhelmed by it all ! Just to elaborate further- one person says that the I5(300SD) needs much more attention/ maintenance than the I6(350SD). Others have said that the 350's have serious motor failures. As you well know I could go on about the "mines better because..." antic. So far I know that a cast iron head sounds like a better motor, but I really like the looks of the 350's with the aluminum. Mabe someone can clue me in. I am sure all that reads this will have something to say and I cant wait to read it!

[pawoSD]

The 617 I5 engines on the 1970's-1985 300SD's are bullet proof and will run a long long time with no problems as long as you perform their normal required maintenance. The 603 I6 Engine on the 300SDL is also very well built and will also last an extremely long time but you have to pay extra attention to maintaining its cooling system as an overheat can cause the aluminum head to crack...which is a $2k repair....the SDLs are a little more costly to maintain than a 300SD but not by much.

The 350's require a lot more maintence, they suffer from the rod-bending issue, and they are also quite a bit more rare/expensive to obtain. Also they have more gadetry and computer items on board that can break. These are definatley the least-reliable of all the diesels, MB got it right again in 1995 onward with the 606 I6 diesels and later the turbo model....

[H-townbenzoboy]

I would tend to stay away from the 350 diesels. Now, those models may have the best refinements, but for piece of mind mechanically, I'd go for a 300SDL. Although, you could always swap an engine from a 300SDL into a 350SD/L, I would love that.
-Joe

[sixto]

You can be in a 300SD within a couple of hours and for under $2000 from just about anywhere in the country. Buy the first decent 300SD you find and learn about Dieseling while you look for a worthwhile 300SDL or 350SD/L. You can look for a keeper 300SD if you decide the 6 cylinder models aren't for you.

I don't know how cold it gets in Syracuse but the ability of the 6 cylinder engines to start in lower temperatures might make the decision for you.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

[pawoSD]

Hey! SD owners could take offense to that....

The o'l five cylinders start up just fine here in the arctic....I only had mine not start once last winter, and that was because the battery had seen better years....new battery in and it was running in no time. (All with no block heater) However I am installing a block heater soon to make winter startup easier on the engine...and so I have heat faster...

[sixto]

Just quoting what I've read.

FWIW I had an SD with a flaky glow plug relay. From March to October it would start easily without glowing. That's in the frozen tundra of the SF Bay Area. The SDL could take lessons from that SD. The SDL needs some prodding if awakened at anything below 50*F.

Also providing personal experience. I had no intention of getting a Diesel. I found a decent SD with bad tranny for around $500. One tranny swap later I realized what I'd been missing. One SDL later I realized I'd been missing about 4" of wheelbase in the SD

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

[pawoSD]

I'll admit that I would definatley not mind having an SDL as well. (of course in addition to my SD) Then again if I had the money I would probably be buying them often.......then trying to find places to put them! Some day I hope I have way too many of these cars....

[Tiredofagasser]

You all have been very helpfull. I think I will start with an SD. It will be a good starting point for a new dieseler such as myself. I believe that the perfect first was just listed today. How cool! I hope that no one beats me to it though.



Price $1,400
Body Style Sedan
Mileage 116,500
Exterior Color Blue
Interior Color Beige
Engine 5 Cylinder Diesel
Transmission Automatic
Drive Type 2 wheel drive - rear
Fuel Type Diesel
Doors Four Door
VIN WDBCB20A3BB010667

Car is an 1981 diesel. Needs breaks and the power antenna does not go down, the paint is starting to faded on the hood and a little rust above the left front fender. Other than that it's in good shape. Has a factory new transmission installed at about 98k, new battery.$1400 OBO

Air Conditioning; Alloy Wheels; Cruise Control; Rear Window Defroster; Power Seats; AM/FM Stereo Cassette; Leather Seats; Power Door Locks; Power Mirrors; Power Windows; Power Steering; Sunroof/Moonroof;



Feedback on this would be appreciated, especially about the brakes-(Best/Worse case scenario). I plan to contact the seller for more specifics. I am hoping that all it needs are pads. The price and mileage dont quite seem right to me at the same time. If I like what they have to say it just might be worth the 250 mile trip!

[Hit Man X]

Brakes on these cars are pretty simple! I still have my Haynes manual from my 300D I use on my SD for torque values and basics when I'm confused on items that I haven't taken apart. It's not a bad idea to pick one up so you know what's going on.

I'd advise against those MB pads as they dust an awful lot! But many swear by them so it's up to you. I've had good luck with Wagner semi metallics on a nearly three ton truck, and with a lifetime warranty... can't beat that. Could need rotors, bearings, master cylinder, lines, etc. Most of that stuff isn't spendy but will take better part of a day to install.

Mind all the old rubber... motor mounts, ball joints, objects of that nature. Inspect the vac lines too, many will be very rotted out and need replacment. Good PM.

Change all the fluids (oil is at your decision, it's highly debated... I run Castrol diesel oil made by BP with a filter from McParts. just make sure it's diesel rated for compression ignition motors and change it often). ATF is important so drain the converter also when you drain the pan and install a new filter. Rear axle is a challange.

Hit the door locks with graphite powder... it's ~$2. NOT WD40.

Use some silicone spray on the door strikers and joints to help the move easier too.

[pawoSD]

The MB pads sure do dust up a lot I cleaned my wheels using an entire bottle of Eagle1 Alumnum Wheel cleaner, and a week later they are almost black again! They work great though, however lately my brakes are sqealing again....it comes and goes, plenty of pads/rotor left, oh well. Its all barely a year old/13k miles.

[J. R. B.]

Tiredofagasser--Keep us posted let us know if you score. From what I've read if you give her some tlc she will be good for you.

[Pete Burton]

That's very low mileage for an SD. If it isn't a rustbucket, that's a good buy! FWIW, an SD in good running condition should start easily on the first try with overnight temps at 0F without a block heater. I have no experience with any lower temps as that's nearly as cold as it gets on the eastern CT shore.

[Tiredofagasser]

I hate answering machines! I called twice now and still no response from the owners. :wtf: Mabe its a real junker after all I'll try again later today.

[Tiredofagasser]

I give up!