Link for Topsider - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#16 10-21-2005, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin85

www.fumitomovalve.com

http://www.fumotovalve.com/

300DPETE · #17 10-21-2005, 04:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

If I can get my big shoulders under the car (without lifting the front end) and pull a little 13mm plug, then most of you can too. If it's really that bad, go down to your local farm supply store and buy some elbow length gloves so you don't get any oil on your arm.

If you can't get the guts to lay down, get a little grime on your hands, and pull a tiny little bolt out of a pan, how do you do the bigger jobs? Valve adjustment, fuel filters, check timing chain stretch, change your tranny oil, change your diff oil, or check your flex-disks for cracks, etc...

I don't care if I get to be 70 and 500lbs, I'd never be seen dead sticking a tube into my engine to do such a simple task as an oil change.

*rant mode off*

I've been doing plenty of work on my engine, and don't mind getting dirty at all (to the chigrin of past girlfriends :-) ). However, I also like the option that if I'm doing 5 things at once on a weekend (after work kicks my butt enough that I can't get anything done during the week), I can do an oil change while doing other things at the same time. Doesn't mean I'll never jack up the car (I've got to change out the tank screen next), does mean that there's nothing wrong, to me, with having an easier alternative when needed.

Relax. I'll drink a couple of beers while the can is pumping if that makes you feel a little better.

Pete.

P.S. I learned patience with this car when i had to change out the ignition switch. The first time was a PITA (several hours), as i wasn't used to changing all those screws without actually being able to see them! Second time (I tried a new switch over the spare) only took me a few minutes.

P.P.S. The last time I changed the oil, the wind was blowing so hard, that I had oil splattered all over the driveway and the inside face of my tires....that's when I first started thinking about the the topsider (no, no garage).

tenknots · #18 10-21-2005, 08:38 AM

I have a pair of $25 ramps that I use. You have to warm up the car anyway to change the oil, so it's no big deal to drive up the ramps. The oil drains into a $4 oil pan and 10 minutes later it's done.

I use a sucker for my boat diesel, but I don't like it since I can never get the last 1/2" of oil which must get thicker with crud each time.

Drain that stuff!

pmari · #19 10-21-2005, 09:57 AM

Wind, rain, snow, freezing temps, etc... There was a big discussion on Fred's TDI page about the amount oil left in the pan after top siding, it's negligible. Plus you can never completely drain all the oil out of the cooler and hoses.

#20 10-21-2005, 10:15 AM

I've changed oil in LOTS of different cars over the years and I can remember only one that required raising to change the oil and it was not an MB.

You can get galvanized pans that are probably about 3 or 4 inches tall very cheap. They slide under the car very easily. You lay down on one side, on a piece of cardboard if you like, reach under and pull the plug. On MB's the filter usually is serviced from the top.

If you are doing several things at once, as one poster mentioned, then draining it underneath is ideal. Simply pull the plug and let it drain while you're doing whatever else you need to do. There is no topsider gizmo in the way up above while the oil is draining.

The really good news about those who use a topsider is that THEY ARE CHANGING THEIR OIL instead of ignoring it because they don't like to lay on the ground and reach under the car. Since in most cases you are not getting out as much, simply change it a little more often.

The reasons I don't, and have never considered using one of the gizmos are:

I always drain my oil at operating temperature and usually overnight. Those last drops that come out are the dirtiest of all.

I don't have the expense of the gizmo.

I get a chance to look around underneath on a regular basis to see what might be falling off or if there are any leaks.

All that said, now that I have a two post lift, I just use the lift and get a really good look underneath whenever changing oil. Before I had a lift changing oil was very easy with low profile drain pans, especially on an MB.

The only car that I've ever changed oil in that was easier than an MB was a Ford with a 200 inline six. On that car, the drain plug was on the side of the pan and the filter on the side of the engine. I could simply slide a pan underneath, reach down from the top and remove the drain plug and the filter.

Good luck,

dieseldiehard · #21 10-21-2005, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

If I can get my big shoulders under the car (without lifting the front end) and pull a little 13mm plug, then most of you can too. If it's really that bad, go down to your local farm supply store and buy some elbow length gloves so you don't get any oil on your arm.

If you can't get the guts to lay down, get a little grime on your hands, and pull a tiny little bolt out of a pan, how do you do the bigger jobs? Valve adjustment, fuel filters, check timing chain stretch, change your tranny oil, change your diff oil, or check your flex-disks for cracks, etc...

I don't care if I get to be 70 and 500lbs, I'd never be seen dead sticking a tube into my engine to do such a simple task as an oil change.

*rant mode off*

OK hang on a minute here, there seems to be a difference in the basic vehicles that is being overlooked! (rant mode on!)
The 124 chassis 300D, 126 300SDL, 201 chassis etc. have a bottom pan across the car that prevents getting at the drain plug (unless you use a big hole saw and modify it!) so raising the car is necessary to change oil in these models. One has to remove 6 bolts to drop the sound panels then remove the panel then reinstall it . . its a lot of work just getting that done and this is the reason topsiders are so desireable in later cars.

In the 115, 123 chassis I agree its easy to grab a wrench, stick a drain pan under the car and drain the oil without jacking or driving up on ramps. I've done that on many wet cold days

BEFORE I HAD A TOPSIDER.

Properly done, you have less chance of spilling oil on the ground with a topsider.

To each his own but keep the differences in cars in mind, they are not all created equal

Austin85 · #22 10-21-2005, 01:29 PM

Whatever anyone does run your car for at least 20 minutes to get the oil hot prior to draining...
and I agree, if you can't unscrew a 13mm bolt, than get another car that doesn't require your time to maintain.....

and thanks it's www.fumotovalve.com good quality plug that drains quickly by opening up clip without unscrewing......

and on my 300D I don't have to jack it up to get to the plug......

300DPETE · #23 10-21-2005, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin85

and I agree, if you can't unscrew a 13mm bolt, than get another car that doesn't require your time to maintain.....

Crimey. What's the big deal if I want to drain the oil either way, or both ways.

I'm amazed at how touchy people are over how other people chose to work on their cars.

...as for the time to maintain...good lord, all I'll I've been doing on the weekends, it seems, is working on my car. In the couple of months that I've had it, I've changed the iginition switch (twice), replaced the lift pump, changed the oil, installed a new block heater, replaced the transmission vacuum levers, changed the primary and secondary filters 3 times over (wvo and biodiesel related), stripped the paint of oxidation, replaced the front grille and emblem, tested for vacuum leaks, diagnosed and fixed a water leak into the interior, changed out the fuses, replaced light-bulbs in the dash-cluster, diagnosed and fixed several air leaks, ran a "Diesel Purge," replaced the interior dome lights, and to top it off fixed a botched install of my Frybrid kit by a mechanic in Florida (I'll spare you itimizing that). This weekend is the first non-busy weekend, I'll only be flushing and changing the coolant.

I want to be able to have a little more flexibility, that's all. If I also wanted to buy a motorized rachet set with fine cork handle-grips...who gives a flying fig. I promise to tighten all the lug-nuts with my bare hands and then polish every millimeter of the engine with a swizel stick as penance. Then maybe I'll aspire to your standards, since apparently I'm so lazy.

You all have a great weekend (sincerely, I appreciate all the information I've found here).

Pete.

#24 10-21-2005, 02:21 PM

Hehe I change my oil and don't even jack the car up to do it! The pan fits right under there just fine.

Might have something to do with the 16inch wheels

Rick Miley · #25 10-21-2005, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300DPETE

Crimey. What's the big deal if I want to drain the oil either way, or both ways.

Exactly! Well, you asked for a link but got a discussion. It seems that some people simply cannot refrain from criticizing others when it comes to this topic.

Eskimo · #26 10-21-2005, 04:32 PM

It's perfectly OK, IMHO, to say something such as, "I prefer to do a particular job this way, and here are the reasons why..." Even if it wasn't specifically requested, that sort of post may provide advice well worth considering. I see a number of posts along those lines in this thread, and that's great. It's an important part of the "Diesel Discussion".

Gee whiz! though, what's with the posts stating, pretty bluntly, something along the lines of, "If you don't do it my way, then you're a sissy/lazy bum/spendthrift/puppy kicker/toilet seat leaver-upper/etc. ? Aside from the discourtesy, the "logic" stinks!

H-townbenzoboy · #27 10-21-2005, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Austin85

and I agree, if you can't unscrew a 13mm bolt, than get another car that doesn't require your time to maintain.....

Man, who pissed in your cereal?

All I have to say is this, whatever is easiest for you (drain plug, topsider, indy) is good enough, just as long as you have it changed hot and often with a good diesel rated oil, dino or synthetic.

Hatterasguy · #28 10-21-2005, 10:21 PM

As soon as my trans leak is fixed I will put the under body panals back on the car. Pulling them off is a pita; if you have ever seen them on a W126 the underside of the car looks like a smooth sheet of plastic.

A Topsider is on my Christmas list. They work good enough for marine diesels and those engines never seem to die from oil related problems. I know a guy who has 25k hours on his Volvo diesel and the oil has been sucked out of the dipstick since day one.

andmoon · #29 10-21-2005, 10:29 PM

Fumoto valves are great but they need to be protected. My 126's bottom is overly covered. My 123 had nothing.

Austin85 · #30 10-23-2005, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H-townbenzoboy

Man, who pissed in your cereal?

All I have to say is this, whatever is easiest for you (drain plug, topsider, indy) is good enough, just as long as you have it changed hot and often with a good diesel rated oil, dino or synthetic.

You're absolutely right. I was just bustin' chops...
My point was that it's really easy to unscrew a single bolt, and If not I made the suggestion that if you don't want to jack the car up, you can get that valve......When I first got this car I saw the link for a topsider, but when I found out how easy it is to do the oil change on these cars, I stopped considering it.