Calling FORCEDINDUCTION!!! need to ask sumtin - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

greasybenz · #1 12-13-2005, 09:11 PM

Im getting pissed of the the stupid air box rattling and i dont want replace whatever i need to keep its mounted, So i remember that one intake kit you made with the fram filter and i want to do the same thing So what did you need to make the intake pipe and everything else like the oil line and what not.

whunter · #2 12-13-2005, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greasybenz

I'm getting pissed of the the stupid air box rattling and I don't want replace whatever I need to keep its mounted, So I remember that one intake kit you made with the Fram filter and I want to do the same thing So what did you need to make the intake pipe and everything else like the oil line and what not.

The crank case vent tube appears to be connected directly to the drain tube by a rubber hose?

If this is what you have done, it needs to be changed ASAP.
The crank case vent; must vent to atmospheric pressure, or you build pressure until it turns off engine, blows oil seals/gaskets and/or blows around the oil fill cap.

TheDon · #3 12-13-2005, 09:47 PM

so maybe that explains why i get some oil dripping.. i think ill do a run with the vent tube disconnected..

greazybenz why dont you try for one of those "diesel performance" intakes off ebay.. some of them have the oil seperator

greasybenz · #4 12-13-2005, 09:58 PM

but arent those ones on ebay super freaking overpriced $40 honda cold air kits that they try to pass off for "specifically desinged" mercedes diesel cold air intake kits? All they do is include that oil seperator and come hoses and clamps and they drill a hole in the pipe for the oil line. Thats to much cash and to low of quality for me.

greasybenz · #5 12-13-2005, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

The crank case vent tube appears to be connected directly to the drain tube by a rubber hose?

If this is what you have done, it needs to be changed ASAP.
The crank case vent; must vent to atmospheric pressure, or you build pressure until it turns off engine, blows oil seals/gaskets and/or blows around the oil fill cap.

no i didnt do this "forcedinduction" is the one who made it thats why im asking for his assistence on what he did to make that.

Diesel Giant · #6 12-13-2005, 10:12 PM

I think his kit is a little more than $40 worth of stainless steel. I guess if you can tig weld and fabricate all the stuff he does you can do it.

What is your metal skill level? I dont know of any off the shelf parts you can use to do what you want. You will have to make it.

greasybenz · #7 12-13-2005, 10:27 PM

hey diesel giant i didnt know you were on this forum. Everyone talks about you on the greasecar forum!!

but anyway my skill level isnt the best but my friend can do it for me. he has everything for fabricating stuff.

Diesel Giant · #8 12-13-2005, 10:29 PM

Hey!

Yes I have been here for a couple of years. Its a great place! If your friend can do the fab then you can build a killer system. Use stainless steel for the metal work.

pawoSD · #9 12-13-2005, 10:38 PM

If you have a properly running engine and good rubber mounts on the airbox, then there shouldn't be any problems. I've not had to mess with mine in ages after I replaced all the mounts and filter a long while ago, and my engine runs very smoothly, so the mounts seem to last a pretty long time for me. OEM is the way to go, the engineers in Stuttgart knew what they were doing when they designed the air intake/filtration system for these engines.....the cheaper the filtration you have, the more silicon you get into the engine, the more wear, the less longevity.

H-townbenzoboy · #10 12-13-2005, 10:44 PM

I don't know why people keep insisting on replacing their original OEM air box with a smaller cone filter. Let me tell you, I'd rather replace those three rubber mounts every few years than place a filter on there that allows more unfiltered air in, consequently reducing engine life. If you REALLY care about your car, you'd keep the OEM air box system, it allows enough air in already, so you don't need to mess with it, the engineers at Daimler-Benz knew what they were doing when they designed these air intake systems. Sure, it sounds cool to hear the turbo and all, but it does NOT improve fuel mileage or 0-60 times.

Done ranting.

-Joe

(pawoSD's post wasn't up when I started writing this, I've noticed we've said just about the same thing, great minds think alike huh?

)

pawoSD · #11 12-13-2005, 10:49 PM

Quote:

(pawoSD's post wasn't up when I started writing this, I've noticed we've said just about the same thing, great minds think alike huh?

)

Indeed they do.

greasybenz · #12 12-13-2005, 11:10 PM

not looking to improve 0-60 times. Just looking to get rid of that ugly box. it was coming off the turbo from the engine idling and when i got home it it basically came off with a soft lift of the box. So i want something like the cold air intake because they will get rid of the ugly box, look better, and people said that it actually has improved mileage by a little but for me i can care less.

#13 12-13-2005, 11:17 PM

Do yourself a favor and just fix the air filter mounts. There is nothing wrong with the stock design except the need to replace the mounts every decade or two. It's not worth risking contaminates getting into the engine. BTW, the stock design is a cold air system, which most of these kits are not.

#14 12-13-2005, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

BTW, the stock design is a cold air system, which most of these kits are not.

EXACTLY

If you can show me that you are getting air to any type of cone filter that is colder than what the stock aircleaner sucks up via the scoop out front of the radiator (or hood) then more power to ya

The paper element filters are better filters than the K&N so I don't have too many qualms there...I just figure federal filters are cheap enough to buy, you get quite some time out of them before they clog up, and they actaully make the engine look "complete" rather than exposed. (But that is just an opinion)

ALso you need some sort of oil catch device if you continue to run this setup. Unless your car is VERY low miles you need some way to catch the oil from the CCV vent, put the oil back down the drain tube and then take the gasses and put then into the intake...pre turbo

If you see any MPG gains...let us know.

BTW a properly tuned/running 617 turbo motor will barely rattle its air-cleaner and mine, even with only two of the 3 mounts being present (the 3rd was broken off by PO's negligence) it still hasn't broke the other two

The ones on a 190E gasser I worked on looked worse than mine

If you are really bent on using that cone filter, please do yourself a favor and atleast set up a oil catch system...you'll save yourself a lot of headaches

JamesDean · #15 12-13-2005, 11:59 PM

what i'd do it to fix the rattling...

1) check and see that your mount braket is OK...mine was broken..one of the mount areas broke off at a weld. I had a friend of mine (Hit Man X) get me another good bracket. Then my uncle who works at Delphi, took it sandblasted it and welded some steel on it to make it stronger so it wouldnt break....paint it with anti-rust paint...

2) get 3 rubber mount things...and the heat shields...i have read about heat shields that go over the rubber.

3) mount the whole thing.

thats what im doing atleast....

cheers

kris