I'm not sure what this part does. It has a line from the banjo bolt. It also has a line to the ALDA. There seems to be some sort of electronic switch attached between.

My turbo seemed to work briefly yesterday. I noticed it's performance waning (it was a rocket just after I did the diesel purge) I cleaned the banjo bolt. It had a medium amount of soot and gunk. It was not 100% blocked I would call it maybe 50%.

After cleaning the banjo bolt.. I don't seem to have any turbo now.

This was not a rapid change kind of thing. I know I didn't disconnect anything.

Is this part involved?

I havent recieved my ordered boost gauge yet. (where to I T that in?) Is there a way to troubleshoot the turbo?

I read up a bunch of threads.. but I don't seem to be able to get a handle on the order of things I should be checking. Is there a way to manually bypass (for a short term run up in the driveway) the wastegate?

Second Picture is my EGR. Did I do the bypass right? What is the small item with the vacuum line below the EGR?

Thanks
JP

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overfueling protection .. thing.. in the first pic

to check the turbo for shaft play and ease of spin make sure the car is off and engine cool

put your hand in the turno inlet if you can after removing the u-tube..

spin the wheel and see if it spins with ease..

the next test is use your thumb or finger see if you can move the wheel forward and back or up and down


also the second pic i have no idea what that is.. my 85 300D-T has it too.. i have a triple k turbo what do you have

also you might want to get the kit to remove the EGR it makes everything look clean and if your egr was stuck open the blocked vacuum line wont do a thing

the item you circled in the 2nd pic is the ARV or air recirculation valve. i not 100% sure, but i think it opens up at some points while driving to put compressed air from turbo back into the air filter. it is useless, and i disabled mine via the BB in the vacuum line.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

The second picture is of the over boost protection valve on the turbo. I think on the OM617 engines only 85 had them. I think, but am not sure, they removed the over fuel protection in favor of this protection valve on the turbo on the 85s.

Edit: Check and see if you cracked the ALDA line. I did this once.

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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/sig692a.png

I just had the same problem with my turbo. Turned out the overboost protection module was plugged. In the bottom of the module it was completly plugged. I am not sure how to vacuum test the module but my understanding is that it should let air flow through it freely when the electrical connector is unhooked. A new one is around 40 bucks from the MB dealership.

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Owen

87 300TD 603 I-6
94 Jeep XJ I-6 4.0 (see the pattern)
89 750il
seventy-two hundred feet above sea level (kinda cold up here)

I'm in the middle of draining the tank. Doing it with a long line attached to the main line next to the IP. It's slow.. but no mess. Dumping it into my home heating oil tank. (i had put in about 50% K1) It's slow going though.

I changed the oil while I was waiting.

The turbo does spin freely. I will try and move it around. What kind of line would you use to replace these vacuum lines? They have some plastic tubing at the hardware store.. is that it?

Need to find a big socket (hope I don't have to drive in town) to take off tank screen.

So it's some sort of electrical connection to cut out the boost. Could I just connect the banjo bolt to the ALDA and bypass it?

THanks much

JP

did you try using some channel lock pliers to get the screen out.. i used a channel lock on the fuel tank sender.. they should also work down there