![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
300TD rear hatch struts
Its time to replace the hatch struts on my '85 MB 300TD.
I did a search but nothing came up related. How easy is this job? Any special tools needed? JWJ
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Brand?
Also, is there a specific brand that is better than others?
The two I see are: Febi and Vaico JWJ
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
**************.com sells a kit (no offense Fastlane) with the shocks and a special tool that makes replacement easier. It also has a detailed description of how to do it. Around 90 bucks as I recall. That is a little high for sure but if a picture in the manual saves you an hours worth of work what the heck ! When you are done you can sell me your tool and manual and I will do mine.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Yes you need a special tool to remove the bolt that attaches the strut to the car. It is called a "triple square" bit. Looks like a torques bit but it is not. It is also a very tight fit to get it, I used a hammer. Do one side at a time, and you may need a helper to hold the gate. The struts just pull out of the hole, bit it takes a bit of wiggling
look here http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=146244 |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I need to do the same thing. My hatch doesn't stay open and it's getting annoying. I was going to go with the mercedesshop on this one. Haven't done it yet though.
__________________
Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Not all hatch struts are secured with a triple square drive hardware. Some have allen heads- and allen heads do fit in the triple square. Buy some metric and standard allen sockts. Old blue lips (a torch) may sometimes useful as a bolt persuader.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Apparently the bolt was changed from an 8mm hex (allen) sometime during production so it's worth a look at yours before any special tool purchase.
The strut isn't all that hard to replace if you line the two mounting holes, mount the forward bolt first, and maybe have help to raise the hatch as much as possible in order to get the rear mount flange under the hinge arm. Sometimes one strut will give a nice gentle action to the hatch and it will stay wherever you like. When both are new watch out for an uppercut, especially if you have a glass jaw. There are at least five other threads on this topic that come up in a simple search..... |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
So the bolt you're speaking of is located at the forward connection to the car?
Or on the rear connection to the hatch? I can't see the forward connection as the strut is in the way. The rear strut connection to the hatch seems to have a pin with a stop slide to hold it in place.
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
You will see the bolt when you pull the rearmost headliner trim (the piece with the speaker holes in it). Pop out the cargo light and disconnect; look for some tiny screws holding the trim in. Remove, and ease out the piece from the window rubber.
All will become clear. ![]()
__________________
Peter 1985 300TD 4-speed 212K 1992 400E 343K 2001 E320 72K |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
My 1985 wagon has the M8 triple square head on the fasteners. If you use an allen wrench you will strip it out. Ask me how I know this.
1. Lift the hatch and support. 2. Remove the clips and pins that hold the strut st the hatch. 3. Remove the rear panel at the headliner. 4. Locate the bolt that holds the strut in and see if it is hex or triple square. 5. Use the appropriate tool to remove the bolt. 6. Assemble with new strut in reverse order. I bought mine off of a place in Miami and they sent the wrong ones the first time, but got it right the second time.
__________________
Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
break the bolt loose first
LOTS of folks strip out that bolt head. LOTS more strip the threads as well putting it back in.
I would get a pair of vise grips and break the bolts loose first before you put allen or triple square or whatever. Those bolts are notoriously tight, and that is best case scenario: it could be that a PO got there first and munged up the bolts ahead of you (I am on my third wagon, and this one is due for new struts too). Once it is loose, it won't strip unless you are using a phillips head. ![]() Take some time feeding that bolt back in so you catch the threads right.
__________________
Peter 1985 300TD 4-speed 212K 1992 400E 343K 2001 E320 72K |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, it has become clear...
Thanks!
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|