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  #1  
Old 05-14-2006, 03:35 PM
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Thumbs down First Valve Adjustment

Well I went ahead and was going to do my first valve job today. I end up taking of the valve cover only to find that I could not locate the feeler gauges I bought just yesterday. So Frustrating!

But after taking off the valve cover and inspecting things it seems like a relativeley easy task. The one problem I encountered was that when taking off the valve cover there was a lot of tension on the bowden cable. I did disconnect the linkage associated with it, but there was still a lot of tension making it very hard to get clearance from the part to left of the power steering pump (not sure what its called). My question is how do you guys over come this? Is there good way take disconnect the bowden cable from the the assembly attached to the valve cover without having to disconnect everything?

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  #2  
Old 05-14-2006, 08:19 PM
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Pop the ball joint on the bowden cable to release it from the throttle linkage. You would have to do this to get the linkage off the valve cover.

The cable should probably be OK just hanging in the bracket, but, if not, then just squeeze the black plastic "fingers" and push the cable out of the bracket. It just snaps back in from the rear when you are done.
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2006, 08:27 PM
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just did my valves today

WOW, after adjusting my valves to day, i have to say one thing, doing it with straght wrenchs is A PAIN IN THE A$$ i started at 2 this afternoon and didnt finish until 7pm. But other than that,

it runs alot smoother!! yay!!
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  #4  
Old 05-14-2006, 08:32 PM
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ive got to do my valves now.. so did you remove the fan shroud and fan to get to the crank bolt? it looks like i have to on my om617
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2006, 08:50 PM
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Cant you just turn the engine over with the 22 mm nut at the power steering pump?
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2006, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMan300sd
Cant you just turn the engine over with the 22 mm nut at the power steering pump?
tried.. but the bolt on the crank works better .. i think its even specified in the cd manual
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2006, 09:20 PM
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Thumbs up

Don't use the steering pump!

Also, a hand held starter is a great item to have. Makes my job adjusting valve on this and the runing BMW a breeze.
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2006, 12:30 AM
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When I adjusted my valves they were all too tight... i felt no noticeable difference in engine smoothness/power unfortunately. It actualyl was kinduva PITA even with the curved wrenches. But im sure with practice it is second nature.
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Old 05-15-2006, 12:32 AM
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Thumbs up

Mine started quite a bit easier after the adjustment, I recall all but one were too tight. Can't recall about top end power... I know the manual boost controller made a large difference in power going from 8psi to 12psi
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  #10  
Old 05-15-2006, 10:54 AM
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Using a 1/2" drive ratchet and 27mm deep socket on the crankshaft bolt, from below, works fine. (Albeit the remote starter would make it even easier.) You will find that counting the strokes (on mine it's 3)to move the cam to the next lobe, makes it go pretty quickly.
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  #11  
Old 05-15-2006, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
Using a 1/2" drive ratchet and 27mm deep socket on the crankshaft bolt, from below, works fine. (Albeit the remote starter would make it even easier.) You will find that counting the strokes (on mine it's 3)to move the cam to the next lobe, makes it go pretty quickly.
Yes, I do this and it works well. I tried the PS pulley, and the belt just slips -- maybe it's too loose, but it drives the pump, so I haven't messed with it any further.
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  #12  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:14 PM
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Hmm, see, I'm going to be doing this soon (we all are, it seems... Spring job!), and I was expecting to use the PS pump pulley to turn the engine over. Dieselgiant recommends that, assuming your belt is tight enough. I figured for the few turns it takes to move the lobes, that it wasn't going to hurt anything.

I was hoping to not have to jack up the car for this job... I can turn on the crankshaft if I have to, but I'd just rather not.

peace,
sam
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  #13  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:22 PM
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I too was planning to use the PS nut

Why should we not? with the GP's pulled there would be no compression to deal with, I can't see what would go wrong, and this would make it safer to turn, as you wouldn't accidentally turn it the wrong way. Please advise as to why not to use the PS nut.
Thanks!
John
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:22 PM
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It's not necessary to jack the car up to get on the crankshaft
bolt. All you need is a deep socket, 27mm if I remember correctly.

Bob
'82 300D
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech
Why should we not? with the GP's pulled there would be no compression to deal with, I can't see what would go wrong, and this would make it safer to turn, as you wouldn't accidentally turn it the wrong way. Please advise as to why not to use the PS nut.
Thanks!
John
This was hashed out in the past. The FSM procedure states that the crankshaft bolt is to be used for turning the engine over. Also, many have stated that the power steering shaft is a tapered shaft seal and not designed for such torque.
However, as hashed out before, if you remove the glow plugs to remove compression and are willing to take that risk, no one is going to demand that you do otherwise. It is just not the recommended procedure.

Accidently turn the wrong way? I don't see how this could be less of a risk.

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