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#1
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First Valve Adjustment
Well I went ahead and was going to do my first valve job today. I end up taking of the valve cover only to find that I could not locate the feeler gauges I bought just yesterday. So Frustrating!
But after taking off the valve cover and inspecting things it seems like a relativeley easy task. The one problem I encountered was that when taking off the valve cover there was a lot of tension on the bowden cable. I did disconnect the linkage associated with it, but there was still a lot of tension making it very hard to get clearance from the part to left of the power steering pump (not sure what its called). My question is how do you guys over come this? Is there good way take disconnect the bowden cable from the the assembly attached to the valve cover without having to disconnect everything?
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
#2
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Pop the ball joint on the bowden cable to release it from the throttle linkage. You would have to do this to get the linkage off the valve cover.
The cable should probably be OK just hanging in the bracket, but, if not, then just squeeze the black plastic "fingers" and push the cable out of the bracket. It just snaps back in from the rear when you are done. |
#3
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just did my valves today
WOW, after adjusting my valves to day, i have to say one thing, doing it with straght wrenchs is A PAIN IN THE A$$ i started at 2 this afternoon and didnt finish until 7pm. But other than that,
it runs alot smoother!! yay!!
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1983 Euro 240D 277K 2016 Mazda 6 Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec Formers: 2012- Mazda 3 2007 Outlander- complete pile 1995 E300 Diesel 208K 2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD 2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K 2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000 2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold 1984 300 turbo diesel 222K |
#4
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ive got to do my valves now.. so did you remove the fan shroud and fan to get to the crank bolt? it looks like i have to on my om617
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#5
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Cant you just turn the engine over with the 22 mm nut at the power steering pump?
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
#6
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Quote:
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#7
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Don't use the steering pump!
Also, a hand held starter is a great item to have. Makes my job adjusting valve on this and the runing BMW a breeze.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#8
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When I adjusted my valves they were all too tight... i felt no noticeable difference in engine smoothness/power unfortunately. It actualyl was kinduva PITA even with the curved wrenches. But im sure with practice it is second nature.
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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi |
#9
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Mine started quite a bit easier after the adjustment, I recall all but one were too tight. Can't recall about top end power... I know the manual boost controller made a large difference in power going from 8psi to 12psi
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#10
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Using a 1/2" drive ratchet and 27mm deep socket on the crankshaft bolt, from below, works fine. (Albeit the remote starter would make it even easier.) You will find that counting the strokes (on mine it's 3)to move the cam to the next lobe, makes it go pretty quickly.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#11
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Quote:
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#12
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Hmm, see, I'm going to be doing this soon (we all are, it seems... Spring job!), and I was expecting to use the PS pump pulley to turn the engine over. Dieselgiant recommends that, assuming your belt is tight enough. I figured for the few turns it takes to move the lobes, that it wasn't going to hurt anything.
I was hoping to not have to jack up the car for this job... I can turn on the crankshaft if I have to, but I'd just rather not. peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#13
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I too was planning to use the PS nut
Why should we not? with the GP's pulled there would be no compression to deal with, I can't see what would go wrong, and this would make it safer to turn, as you wouldn't accidentally turn it the wrong way. Please advise as to why not to use the PS nut.
Thanks! John |
#14
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It's not necessary to jack the car up to get on the crankshaft
bolt. All you need is a deep socket, 27mm if I remember correctly. Bob '82 300D |
#15
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Quote:
However, as hashed out before, if you remove the glow plugs to remove compression and are willing to take that risk, no one is going to demand that you do otherwise. It is just not the recommended procedure. Accidently turn the wrong way? I don't see how this could be less of a risk.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
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