Hi all,

I just got done tearing out the dash to replace a failed evaporator on my sister-in-law's 1997 E300D.

I used a combination of All Data, STAR TekInfo, and my digital camera to do the tear down and build back, however I decided that it may be a good idea to plug everything in first with some of the instrument panel loose to make sure verything functioned. But when I tried to start the engine is just cranked and no hint of starting. I didn't smell fuel or anything so I'm thinking it might just be a fuel problem.

The car has been sitting for no longer than a week with out being started, I actually began the project Friday afternoon. And at that time everything was together.

So here's what I have so far, everything seems to work properly all of the controls and instruments, lights, radio, a/c controls respond properly. Under the hood I just removed the wiper assembly and the air inlets (for the a/c not the engine). I checked real good to make sure I didn't knock anything loose and I can't see that I did.

My only Mercedes experience is on the 115/116,123, and 126 chassis. I know nothing about the "newer" eclass (w210).

Any tips on where to start troubleshooting? I'm afraid to continue putting the dash back together, but I can't imagine there would be anything in the dash that would prevent a start.

Thanks,
Bill

I was working on a 99 CLK320 and discovered that the car would not start unless the instrument cluster was plugged in - I don't know for sure but I suspect it has something to do with the fact that the digital odometer has to be recognized by the engine ECU before it will permit an engine start.

Try reconnecting the instrument cluster and see if it starts.

Sorry, I meant to say that I've plugged everything in that I know if, I just haven't put screws in everything.

The instrument cluster powers up, everything seems to work. It also doesn't appear to be throwing any codes (stored codes icon is not lit on the display).

The bad thing is, I didn't start it on Friday to make sure it started. I normally do this when I'm working on car, kind of a checklist of what works just to be sure. While I did run this car a week ago, I didn't check before so that's my fault.

Anyway, going to put the charger on it and build the battery back up as I tried starting it about 30 times today (not all at once).

One other question, on the 617 engines you can prime the injection pump by hand, how does that work on these newer diesels? Electric fuel pump or is it still mechanical? Do I have to pull the intake manifold all off to get to anything on this?

Thanks,
Bill

Is there any air in the fuel lines. It could have been just a coincidence that the time sitting allowed air to build up, and if any of the seals are shot then it might be just sucking air.

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Dennis
2006 E320 CDI Black/Black Leather. Nav, HTD Seats HK stereo 32000 miles.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t 300,000 miles as of Dec 09, 2009 original owner
1997 E300d Silver 300,000 miles As of Jan 05, 2010
3rd owner SOLD

I'd still recheck/reconnect the instrument cluster, make sure all the connectors are installed properly. There was one connector that had a "lever-type" locking mechanism that I thought I had latched correctly but I had not installed it correctly. As I recall the cluster powered up but the car would not start - reinstalling the cluster solved the problem.

The IP is primed by cranking the engine, there is no hand pump used for priming. Of course if you did not disturb the fuel system you should not have to re-prime it. The low pressure fuel pump is still mechanical. The intake manifold is easily removed and really opens up access to the pump/fuel lines and glowplugs if further troubleshooting is required.

e300D97: I didn't disturb the fuel system but I did notice a slight amount of diesel around the injectors a week ago, so it's possible that maybe everything isn't as tight as it should be.

TimFreeh: Yep I messed with that a couple of times with no luck. I also disconnected the negative battery cable and reconnected it a couple of times "just in case".

I love these newer models, but working on them is a pain in the butt. Give me a w126

Thanks again for everything guys, I'll try pulling the intake and checking out the fuel lines. I might crack the injectors lines slightly and try turning it over again to see if I can purge any air.

-Bill

Try filling the fuel filter right to the top (so it spills over when you reattach it) and crank it continuously for about 15-20 seconds. Make sure to wait at least 30 seconds to a minute between cranks. I found that the engine will idle for about 5 minutes this way even if those fuel lines that are under a slight vacuum or the prefilter seal is sucking in air. If the fuel lines are so old that they look fairly brown in color, they will leak if you so much as tap them with your finger.

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Scott C.

2006 E320 CDI (120k miles)
FOR SALE: 1998 E300 Turbo Diesel - Black w/Tan Leather - Euro delivery (236k miles)

Ah, good suggestion. I tell you what, you don't work on these things for a year and you forget all the good tricks.

Thanks,
Bill

Possibly your Alarm system, if you have one.

Phil

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'95 E300 Diesel, 264,000 Miles. [Sold it]

I'm not sure if it does or not? I've used the keyless entry to lock and unlock the doors a few times, thinking that was it. Anything I can do to check that?

-Bill

Okay, so feeling real stupid now.

So, I decided to go ahead and get everything bolted down inside because I had resigned that something in the engine compartment had gotten knocked loose, and I noticed that I didn't put the trim ring on around the key switch. And then I remembered something. There is a transponder in the key ( I knew this before but assumed that it used the metal of the key and then sent the code inside the cylinder ). Stupid me didn't realize that the chrome ring around the trim was actually an antenna with a cable to go back to the anti-theft. Plugged that in and bam, she was running.

Ugh.

-Bill

Makes me glad that I got a '96.

Why?

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#dieselFLEET
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'97 E300
'99 E300

The '96 lacks a transponder for the key. Less electronics to break. To me, that's a plus.

The key does have an IR transmitter to lock and unlock the car, but no electronics in the key itself are used to run the engine.