Well I started yesterday on the lower control arms. The spring came out easily with the Klann compressor. The ball joint was tough the remove and I ended up cutting the nut off. The bad news is the control arm is rusty and crumbled somewhat while pressing its bushing out. I ordered two new ones. I guess this is from the salt corrosion in upstate NY. I will replace the ball joints and the sway bar links while I'm doing the job.
Otherwise, it has been medium level of difficulty to do.
Pictures attached show the first few steps.
Steve

Attached Thumbnails

       

My two new lower control arms arrived today. Both are correct and came fitted with new bushings. That means I've got a set of Lemfoerder bushings for sale now for 100!
The new control arms from Phil are excellent. They bolted right up with no problems.
The drivers side is done and now on to the passenger's side. I plan to get the car aligned after I'm done. The job is not that tough with the new control arms. I'm glad I replaced the rusty ones. More pictures to follow I hope.
Steve

Hi Steve,
So the press you have that you mentioned on the previous post was adequate to remove the bearings on the old bushings. What was it....a 11 ton press?
Cheers,

__________________
FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K

My press was more than adequate, a 20 ton model.
Here's a few pictures. Job is done!
Photo 1 old and new arm
#2 Use of tie rod separator to pull off the sway bar link
#3 Use of a pipe to drive on the sway bar link.
#4 new control arm
#5 tightening up the new ball joint to the lower control arm. A 5mm allen wrench has to be cut short to do this task. That's what they make Craftsman tools for!
Steve

Attached Thumbnails

         

More photos of the lower control arm installation

Attached Thumbnails

 

Spring compressor reinstalling the spring.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Results of suspension rebuild: It drives great!. 55mph shimmy is gone. I didn't realize how bad it was before. Much quieter and firmer steering feel. It needs an alignment now and I scheduled this at the stealership.
Steve

What caused you to change these?

Mine tends to follow ruts and wander more than I would like, but does not show unusual wear of the tires.

I have this job in the back of my head to do at 100k, and see about upgrades to the spring perches.

Thanks

__________________
raMBow

1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck
2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5
(2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg
2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work
1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg

55mph shimmy is the indication.
Steve

My 55mph shimmy is gone now and the steering is solid. The car creakes on both sides in the front now. Anybody have ideas on this? I'm suspicious it's the sway bar. It creaks when stopped if I bounce the front fenders down and up.
Steve

I have the exact same creak, but I haven't replaced the control arms like you have. Anybody?

__________________
#dieselFLEET
---------------
'97 E300
'99 E300

Where did you get the KLANN compressor? Is it an original KLANN or replica unit?

__________________
#dieselFLEET
---------------
'97 E300
'99 E300

I had a front end creak when slowly comming down off of speed bumps.

It disappeared when I replaced the sway bar links. I did also put a little silicone grease between the sway bar and main bushing at the same time so cant say for sure which operation made it stop.

The sway bar links made a big imporvement in handling as did new shocks a week later.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Need help guys.... Currently working on the passenger front control arm. I am in the process of removing the spring. I have the spring compressed w/ a Klann type compressor. Prior to doing anything, I removed the uppers bolts holding the shock. When I lifted the car you could see that the shock up top had some play as it allowed the suspension to drop lower, say 1/2 inch. When I began to compress the spring that 1/2" gap bagan to close. I have the spring compressed where is it loose, but not enough to completely remove it. I don't to compress the spring anymore than need be. I removed the bolt at the bottom of the shock, the swaybar link holding it onto the control and no go. If I press down on the rotor assembly, it bounces fimrly, showing there is that available play but I don't know what else is holding it up and keep a springy tension. The lower control arm bolts are still in, haven't touched them...

Thoughts guys? I'd liek to have the spring out at least today.

__________________
#dieselFLEET
---------------
'97 E300
'99 E300

About to go through this job myself - does anyone have the torque specs for the various fasteners?

Bolts that go through the control arm bushings
Strut and sway bar mounting bolts
Ball joint bolts

Big thanks in advance if you have these numbers!!

__________________
'98 E300 turbodiesel