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  #31  
Old 08-28-2006, 09:44 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Rosholt, Wi
Posts: 41
Had similar symptoms on my veg oil side

Well, for what it's worth: when I had the exact same symptoms on my veg side I could diagnose it pretty easily because I have clear fuel lies after my 3 port valves. I had an air leak in my filter connections and when I would switch to veg I could see the bubbles in the line and the car would display the exact same problems you described: loss of power and eventual stall.

Try clear lines as suggested in a previous post (if you haven't already.) It sounds like air to me. Clear lines really give you a window into the fuel going into your IP. That is, you will be able to see immediately if you have air and where it's coming from -good luck.

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  #32  
Old 08-29-2006, 09:31 AM
rblookc
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I do not want to perpetuate an off subject, but I am not a fan of the single tank system for places with subfreezing temps. It's not a solution to this problem, but I wanted to throw that in. I am in the "air" camp. A vaccuum pump can do wonders for testing this stuff, after of course, you drain the lines (PITA).
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  #33  
Old 08-29-2006, 11:35 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Annapolis, Md.
Posts: 556
If you pressurize the fuel system suspected you will find the leak fast. Someone here pressurized his fuel cap. I believe it was Carrolton Hughes.

My car started up quite easily at 22F after sitting at night for 5 1/2 hours. It idled smooth and I drove it 30 miles home. I have not had one single problem with with my one tank kit. My two tank kit was another story.

I think it is a solution. If you are experiencing really cold weather just add 10-20% diesel to your veggie and you are good down into the negatives. Just make sure to use canola oil in the winter.

All dual tank systems use even more diesel. Plus you have to flip switches and have purge times. They take up more space and have the possibility of diesel ending up in the trunk. Not fun!!

I believe the key is to have the after glow feature, different injector nozzles and pressure (which no one in the US is doing), and electric and coolant preheaters.
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  #34  
Old 08-30-2006, 05:51 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: D.C.
Posts: 487
did you find the leak?

I noticed that I had to hold the top bolt on my diesel filter housing with a wrench when I installed my last diesel filter. I'm not sure if this is standard or not... I too suspect that the leak could be near this area. Let us know if your new IP or something else does the trick.
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  #35  
Old 09-13-2006, 10:32 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 14
Final Update

2 Months 2 mechanics....IP was replaced...running great.

FYI.. ED Owen - Euopean Auto Solutions Waltham Ma 781-642-0667

Great to work with

Pat

Last edited by pat_cain; 09-13-2006 at 10:39 AM.
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  #36  
Old 09-13-2006, 10:35 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: D.C.
Posts: 487
did you ever diagnose the problem?

In all this work did you actually find out what the problem was that was causing the stalling? For instance, what was wrong with the IP?
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  #37  
Old 09-13-2006, 10:39 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 14
Just got it back, pump is in my cellar, I plan on opening it up this weekend

Pat
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  #38  
Old 09-13-2006, 01:03 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: D.C.
Posts: 487
lift pump

did the shop replace your lift pump as well?

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