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#1
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![]() just picked up the car yesterday - my first MB - my first diesel. can't wait to get into this...i fall squarely into the newbie category.
![]() first thing i noticed is that the oil is low. i live in the northeast - is there a consensus pick for oil brand and type? in the diesel world will it matter that i have no idea what type of oil is in there now? thanks, sorry for the painfully newbie question... dd ps. what a great forum... |
#2
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It matters not what is in there now, get a good STP or Fram filter 2930 and change what is in there for your preference of CI rated oil. for now, I would just put in some cheap delo 400 or rotella from wally world. then once you know what the characteristics on the motor are, move up to a better quality synthetic.
John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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Diesel oil + filter
Quote:
As suggested, get some oil that is rated for diesel engines -- there's gasser oil and diesel oil. Diesel oil has extra additives to help handle the soot that gets into the oil. You'll need something like 8 quarts, so look for the gallon jugs, its usually diesel oil anyway. Check the owners manual and get the correct weight for the temperatures you expect before the next oil change. Get an oil filter. MB diesels are different than gas cars -- no screw-on filters for these babies. The filter cartridge drops into a bolt-down pressure cannister. The canister lid sees around 100PSI of pressure at high RPM and with warm oil, so keep a close eye on it for leaks after the change for a while. Worst thing you can do to the engine is to loose your oil, and at 100PSI, that can happen very fast if you're loosing it from the oil filtration system. You'll need the filter cartridge and the large O-ring for the top of the filter housing. Might also want to look for new crush washers for the lid and new small O-rings for the stem. When I did my oil change, I figured an oil filter is an oil filter is an oil filter and ended up at NAPA for mine. It isn't a bypass filter like it should be, but I plan to change oil again in under 1000 miles anyway (SOP for me with new used car). If I had that first oil change to do over again, I'd do something like give Phil from the buy-parts section of this site a call, explain what I'm up to and get the full set of parts I'll need and a good quality filter. If you want a brand name, the Hengst seems to be the only brand people haven't found bad examples of yet and will be what I order for the next oil change since it'll be in there for a while this time. If you don't already have one, get a manual to help on how to do maintence like this. The Haynes is pretty good for simple stuff like this, but mine did forget about the stem O-rings and crush washers. I got by (this time) without changing either. Tons to read here on oil and oil filters -- I think those two alone are the most popular thread subjects around here ![]() I've droned on a bit. Hope it helps instead of insulting your intelligence ![]()
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#4
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another thing to do
Since you just bought it I would check the inline fuel filter and the spin on..they are easy to change out and if you don't know about the PO and how well he took care of it is something I would do right away. I run rotella 15/40 in mine but I live in the south where cold weather doesn't stick around long. Do a search on "oil types" or something like that and you can find what different people are using. From what I have read, synthetic is the way to go. My next oil change I will be changing to that. If you have a leak though, I would fix the leak before you switch over...sythentic can start to cost you some $$$ if you have a leak.
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1979 240d 216k (W123) Daily Driver Volvo 245DL 210k 1979 300D FOR SALE 2002 Tahoe 91k FOR SALE 1980 300sd 177k (W116) Sold 1980 300sd Parts (W116) Junked 1979 240D 121k (W123) Sold 1982 300TDT 298K (W123) (Sold) |
#5
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Which oil and filters are a huge debate. My recommendations
Mercedes filters only, Join the Mercedes Benz Club of America so you can get a discount on parts and service at the dealer. Some times whole sale prices. Oil, I also use Rotella, Its designed for diesels and cheap at Walmart. Change your oil and filter every 3000 miles if you want the engine to last. Change all the fluids in the car, Oil, antifreeze, power steering fluid and filter, tranny filter and fluid, Change all filters, air fuel ( inline and main fuel filter) Make sure you have inline vacuum filters. Check all vacuum lines and 2way, 3way and 4 way connectors. inspect all hoses for condition. Change drive belts if they look old and cracked. Check brake pad wear. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#6
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for now...
thanks for all of the responses! ill just put in some regular non-synthetic oil for the time being. once ive verified that the oil is just low and not leaking ill do a change with synthetic and new oil filter. im not driving the car anywhere in the meantime.
i checked the oil when i got the car and it was not registering on the dipstick. yikes. the oil pressure gauge i remember was around 2 or 1.75, i dont think the oil light was on. ill see. this car i already know i need new rear axle shafts, motor mounts, vacuum system fiddling and a tranny adjustment. im in it to win it... dd |
#7
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I don't think theese cars have low oil lights, so don't rely on that to keep you safe.
2 bar on cold oil in these cars is a bad sign. John
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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