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#16
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The screw on mine does not have a slot in the end. It's more like just a threaded stud.
I tightened the lock nut back down to the point that when I applied further force the throttle linkage on the other side of the VCV started to move. Still the vac remains at 15". I will continue to try and do something. I'll also try to post a pic of my set up. |
#17
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I completely removed the lock nut. Due to the vibration of the engine, the piece I earlier described as a nut with two flat surfaces located behind the lock nut slid out. When this piece slid out I could see that it is a round sleeve looking thing about 3/4" long with a slot in it.
With the piece partially withdrawn I can turn it. If I rotate it CCW I can get the vac down to 8". I cannot figure out a way to keep it there and tighten the lock nut. I have some pics, but I haven't taken the time to figure out how to attach them |
#18
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Can you turn the car off and find a small slot screwdriver that the locknut can slide on, then hold the scredriver with one hand and run the nut down finger tight, start the car and make the final adjustment and tighten?
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#19
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I assume by flaring, you mean a soft delayed shift? Mine does that and I was told it was due to age.
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#20
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........Who told you that??
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#21
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No kidding! IT would only be due to age if proper maintenance was skipped, then is becomes known as slippage.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#22
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Trials and Tribulations
Did you guys think I went AWOL? At least I still have a since of humor My Wife is sure feeling neglected and letting me know about it.
I was able to put some pressure in a CCW direction against one of the two flat edges on the slotted sleeve I described earlier. By going in a CCW direction I was able to get the vac down to 7"-8". After a couple of failed attempts I got the lock nut tightened down and everything held in place. I was going to take it for a test drive when I looked over and saw the plastic "U" shaped tube of the turbo sitting un-attached. I tried forever to get it to stay in place. I have no idea what the problem is with it, as it still is not solid. A little pressure, and I'm sure vibration, and it will come off. If you guys have any suggestions on this I'd love to hear them. For the life of me I can't get the clamps to hold it on reliably. I'm ready to JB Weld it in place I then went to start the car again for the test drive and it would not crank over. Nothing. Tried to jump start it without success. Put a volt meter on the batt and it read 10 volts, dropping to 5 when I tried to crank the engine. After making a trip out to get a new battery, I started the car, went for a drive with my son and was pleasantly surprised that everything seems to be working fine. I do wonder why the batt went dead. It didn't give any warning. I'm not taking the time to investigate that tonight. Do you think it was from all of the idling while trouble shooting the vac system today? I didn't think the car was idling too long. The battery was only 4 months old. I had planned to change out the brake fluid tomorrow, but I think I need a break. My patience is at its limit. In closing, thank you Brian for the help. Your advice was invaluable. A check is in the mail for your EGR blocking kit, since I have all of those hoses now removed anyway. If anyone wants to shoot from the hip regarding my battery problem or turbo problem today, I'd love to hear from them. Tobybul, was my experience any help to you? |
#23
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Quote:
With regard to the U-tube, there are a couple of heavy rubber rings on the inside of that tube that get old and need to be replaced. Without a good grip on the rubber, you'll never get the tube to tighten. Here is the scoop on replacing them: http://dieselgiant.com/mercedesintakeseal_ringreplac.htm The battery seems like an unfortunate coincidence. They will typically allow the dome light to remain on overnight and still give you plenty of starting power. You couldn't have killed it by idling it all afternoon. Yep, sit back and take a break. They can be an exasperation if you take on too much........too soon. Last edited by Brian Carlton; 11-20-2006 at 07:47 PM. |
#24
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It was on another board. I usually take my car to a German type specialist that has a good reputation and has done great work for me. I was just surprised that he didn't notice it or at least comment on it to me. I would have thought it would have been noticed and asked me if I wanted to fix it.
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#25
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Also, it only does it when the car is cold, usually worse when its cold out.
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#26
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Quote:
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#27
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Transmissions do need to warm up also. When cold, they will make firmer shifts, or take longer to shift, etc. That is why the general advice to to drive a car easy like when cold, as the oils do not flow as well, and become more tacky and thick. Clutch pack linings getting thin and worn out cause slipping. A filter getting plugged up, allows the clutchs inside the packs to rub and wear out, causing slipping. Do not do just a fluid flush. Always change the filter! Also the bottom of the tranny pan will tell you if it's healthy or not.
Lots of fluid dynamics in an automatic tranny, and all the more reason to maintain them like the engines, plenty of fluid and filter changes will keep them happy and give them a long service life.
__________________
RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 TD Turbo, chipped. Still needs EGR Delete, 228K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
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