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-   -   first transmission oil change, what should I use? (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=173287)

spugeddy 12-13-2006 08:26 PM

first transmission oil change, what should I use?
 
I will be doing my first transmission oil change on my 85 300 cdt. What fluid brand, type, do you recommend. I have the filter kit on it's way (mayle) Any tips or tricks. How much typically will come out with just dropping the pan?

ForcedInduction 12-13-2006 10:32 PM

You need to drain the torque converter as well. It holds most of the fluid.

If you do a search, it's all there in detail.

dannym 12-14-2006 08:35 AM

You should consider replacing/upgrade your K-1 spring.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=137381

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=140495

And maybe even the B2 piston:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1048115

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=131124

I used Mobile 1 synthetic when I changed mine.
You may also want to add some varnish remover like TRANS-X before you dump out the old stuff.

Danny

pawoSD 12-14-2006 08:38 AM

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF

Biodiesel300TD 12-14-2006 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym (Post 1357610)
You should consider replacing/upgrade your K-1 spring.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=137381
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=140495
And maybe even the B2 piston:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1048115
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=131124
I used Mobile 1 synthetic when I changed mine.
You may also want to add some varnish remover like TRANS-X before you dump out the old stuff.

Danny

Personally I wouldn't bother with changing either the B2 piston or the K-1 spring unless you are having shifting problems.

Trans-X I do agree with, get rid of all that varnish. You may also need to adjust the trans modulator valve a little after you change the fluid.

gcinque 12-14-2006 11:59 AM

Trans Fluid change
 
I purchased the kit from Fastlane used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and drained the torque converter.

dannym 12-14-2006 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD (Post 1357628)
Personally I wouldn't bother with changing either the B2 piston or the K-1 spring unless you are having shifting problems.

Trans-X I do agree with, get rid of all that varnish. You may also need to adjust the trans modulator valve a little after you change the fluid.

I wouldn't do the B2 piston, I was just throwing that out there. I would do the K1 only for the fact that it's so cheap and easy to do.

Danny

babymog 12-14-2006 01:51 PM

If the transmission is not having any driveability problems, I would not do the trans flush, it has a chance of causing problems.

If you're changing to a syn fluid, I suggest draining and changing the fluid in the pan, running a couple of thousand miles to get the new fluid through the system, then drain the pan and TC and change the whole enchilada.

A friend of mine in the trans business says "don't shock the system".

Flushing the system can in some cars cause varnish etc. to come loose and cause a problem elsewhere in the system, also is not as good a lubricant, if it's working well I see no reason to tempt fate. If it's having problems, Trans-X or another flush is probably cheaper than a rebuild and does have a decent reputation of success.

tscorda 12-14-2006 03:49 PM

Tranny Fluid
 
Mobil 1 ATF, but do not think you will get an extended drain period. Still follow recommended requirement which for a 123 617 engine is around 37,000 miles I believe.

Regards Tom

dannym 12-15-2006 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog (Post 1357868)
If the transmission is not having any driveability problems, I would not do the trans flush, it has a chance of causing problems.

If you're changing to a syn fluid, I suggest draining and changing the fluid in the pan, running a couple of thousand miles to get the new fluid through the system, then drain the pan and TC and change the whole enchilada.

A friend of mine in the trans business says "don't shock the system".

Flushing the system can in some cars cause varnish etc. to come loose and cause a problem elsewhere in the system, also is not as good a lubricant, if it's working well I see no reason to tempt fate. If it's having problems, Trans-X or another flush is probably cheaper than a rebuild and does have a decent reputation of success.

That makes sense.
Synthetic fluid will clean it up somewhat anyway.

Danny

patbob 12-15-2006 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym (Post 1357610)
You should consider replacing/upgrade your K-1 spring.

It's not one of the standard k-1 threads that are quoted, but I gotta add a plug for my contribution :-)

I put it on my web host http://www.hevanet.com/patbob/MercedesK1SpringKit/SpringKitInstall.html because I hadn't figured out how to post things here. I also covered the fluid/filter R&R and included what tools I used. It was mostly for personal documentaiton for next time I want to do it again (prolly 10 years from now after I've forgotten all the details).

The K-1 is definately worth doing while in there. ~$15 and 10min (an hour if you stop and take pictures/ruin your camera).

And the camera is even back together and working again too now :)

spugeddy 12-16-2006 11:58 AM

thanks
 
thanks, the info on the torque converter is very helpful

I will probably do this job next weekend


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