I will be doing my first transmission oil change on my 85 300 cdt. What fluid brand, type, do you recommend. I have the filter kit on it's way (mayle) Any tips or tricks. How much typically will come out with just dropping the pan?

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is

You need to drain the torque converter as well. It holds most of the fluid.

If you do a search, it's all there in detail.

You should consider replacing/upgrade your K-1 spring.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=137381

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=140495

And maybe even the B2 piston:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1048115

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=131124

I used Mobile 1 synthetic when I changed mine.
You may also want to add some varnish remover like TRANS-X before you dump out the old stuff.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Personally I wouldn't bother with changing either the B2 piston or the K-1 spring unless you are having shifting problems.

Trans-X I do agree with, get rid of all that varnish. You may also need to adjust the trans modulator valve a little after you change the fluid.

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I purchased the kit from Fastlane used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and drained the torque converter.

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GC
1987 300E 104K
1984 300CD 112k R.I.P

I wouldn't do the B2 piston, I was just throwing that out there. I would do the K1 only for the fact that it's so cheap and easy to do.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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If the transmission is not having any driveability problems, I would not do the trans flush, it has a chance of causing problems.

If you're changing to a syn fluid, I suggest draining and changing the fluid in the pan, running a couple of thousand miles to get the new fluid through the system, then drain the pan and TC and change the whole enchilada.

A friend of mine in the trans business says "don't shock the system".

Flushing the system can in some cars cause varnish etc. to come loose and cause a problem elsewhere in the system, also is not as good a lubricant, if it's working well I see no reason to tempt fate. If it's having problems, Trans-X or another flush is probably cheaper than a rebuild and does have a decent reputation of success.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Mobil 1 ATF, but do not think you will get an extended drain period. Still follow recommended requirement which for a 123 617 engine is around 37,000 miles I believe.

Regards Tom

That makes sense.
Synthetic fluid will clean it up somewhat anyway.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

It's not one of the standard k-1 threads that are quoted, but I gotta add a plug for my contribution :-)

I put it on my web host http://www.hevanet.com/patbob/MercedesK1SpringKit/SpringKitInstall.html because I hadn't figured out how to post things here. I also covered the fluid/filter R&R and included what tools I used. It was mostly for personal documentaiton for next time I want to do it again (prolly 10 years from now after I've forgotten all the details).

The K-1 is definately worth doing while in there. ~$15 and 10min (an hour if you stop and take pictures/ruin your camera).

And the camera is even back together and working again too now

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

thanks, the info on the torque converter is very helpful

I will probably do this job next weekend

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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000

98 BMW 323is