I am going to have my engine/transmission out of the car in a bout a months time. While the engine is out, is that a good time to do things like clean the outside and check/replace timing chain and other stuff?

I'm going to be doing some rust repair soon, if everything goes according to plan....

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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FACEBOOK: PANZER450

No. It's better to do it with the engine in the car where it's harder to clean the hidden spots. j/k

With the engine out, it's the perfect time to replace the oil filter base gasket if it's showing any sign of leaking.

Some thoughts.....You didn't mention if you will be disassembling the engine?

There is at least 1 short hose that is difficult to change....I would change them all....but that 1 hose would be a "must do".....

Renew Belts....

Check chain tensioner on timing chain and oil pump....

Take FI Pump to Calibration Shop, as well as the Injectors

Install Exhaust Gas Pyrometer.....

Install Turbo Boost Gage.....

Renew Motor and Tranny Mounts....

Clean, Clean, Clean......

Look over Transmission cooler hoses.....

Inspect frame and body that was hidden by engine.....

Renew Flex Discs in Driveshaft.....since it's out anyway....

Address any Transmission issues that you may have.....

Check brushes on Starter.....do Insulation Resistance test.....

shoot....there is all sortsa stuff that comes to mind.....put engine in a good engine stand.....pop oil pan, examine crankcase, main and journal bearings, clean out any sludge.....

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

Strip the block and paint it (not strip it to a short block but ya know).

Be careful that you don't get yourself into a MAW situation. MAW (might as well) is when you say, "Well, I've got the engine out of the car I 'might as well' do this or that". Now that it is easy to take the pan off I MAW check the main and rod bearings. As long as I have the bearing caps off I MAW check the rings. And on and on it goes until all of a sudden you are about $200 shy of a complete overhaul. I speak from experience.

Most definitely the oil cooler hoses. Those are a bisnatch to do with the engine in the car.

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

lmao! I've got two of my cars sitting at home because I suffer from this condition

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Going to have to get a new oil cooler. More than likely the threads on the oil cooler are going to strip off and your SOL.

I just replaced my hoses on my sd. I got the hoses off without any thread stripping. I soaked the fittings with penetrating oil a few hours before and then used a pencil soldering torch to heat up the nut. It worked like a charm.

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

In my opinion because you have 420,400 km (261,222 miles) on the clock. I wouldn’t do anything to the engine, until you do compression check and/or leak down test on all cylinders to make sure the engine is in healthy condition. If it has a healthy compression, then you can budget for new parts.. i.e. slip in new std size main and rod bearings, replace timing chain, new water pump etc. If not healthy then you can either spend more money to get it corrected or just do the seals and oil gaskets and get it over with.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Lucky guy... But it can be a gamble. I'll have to rember that when or if I have to remove mine.

Both mine came off without a problem. I did the same and soaked them in PB-blaster for about 30 minutes.

I must be lucky twice then. Did my 77, and just did my 85. I have heard and was warned about the thread strippage though, and was prepared for a new cooler.

I have this disorder as well....but I really hate to have to do all of the work to pull an engine and transmission....only to have to do it again in 6 months or a year.....maybe it's a form of laziness......

The compression test, would be a good idea, before you pull the engine......and then you would have some idea of what you're lookin at.....

But while it's out.....MAW.....
If your timing chain and tensioner are in good shape......do the offset woodruff key to adjust the camshaft to the crank...if necessary.....

and check the oil pump chain and tensioner......see the Diesel Giant pictorial of an engine disassembly.....

SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

I guess that's where we all differ; if I have to remove an engine from a car, it's getting rebuilt!!