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  #1  
Old 01-29-2007, 07:54 AM
mrhills0146
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COLD running 617??

617 turbodiesel.

Previous owner is a family member and swears the T-stat is "not old." Last few weeks the car has seemingly never come up to operating temp. This morning was quite cold (18F) and on my 40-mile drive, temperature gauge never got over 60C.

Heat is marginal in the car but I know the monovalve is bad and I plan to fix that issue this week.

Are there other ways besides the presence (or lack thereof) of cabin heat to tell if I'm looking at a cold-running 617 or just an inaccurate temp gauge? Or would you recommend just replacing the T-stat?
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  #2  
Old 01-29-2007, 08:01 AM
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It's either the thermostat or the gauge. Since you describe less than stellar heating I would suspect the thermostat. They do get stuck open. My 300CD was when I bought it and had the same symptoms. A new thermostat solved it and now it has plenty of heat. The part is cheap and it is an easy one to replace...just be sure to get all of the air out of the system when you refill it. There are plenty of threads about that.

Your lack of cabin heat could also be caused by the auxilliary coolant pump being bad. I think that when the monovalves fail they usually fail open causing excessive heat...not sure though. I do know that if the aux coolant pump isn't working it can cause weak cabin heating.
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  #3  
Old 01-29-2007, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
just be sure to get all of the air out of the system when you refill it. There are plenty of threads about that.
OK, how do you bleed the air out? Is there some trick? Got a good link?
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84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
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  #4  
Old 01-29-2007, 02:56 PM
DieselBone's Avatar
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I take the top hose off and fill that first, then the rad. I think thats the best way.
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1970 280SEL (sold)
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  #5  
Old 01-29-2007, 03:04 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackG View Post
OK, how do you bleed the air out? Is there some trick? Got a good link?
Well, first, try the "Sans-a-Stat" Just kidding!

Best way to bleed it, is to burp it. With the front end raised up, fill the system through the upper radiator hose. Take the hose off of the radiator, but leave it hooked up to the t-stat housing. This will also fill the radiator since the hose level is higher than the top of the radiator. Keep filling until some coolant dribbles out of the upper radiator hose connection on the radiator. Then connect the hose back, add some coolant to the tank, start the car and check for leaks.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #6  
Old 01-29-2007, 04:31 PM
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Thanks.....I would have just tried filling through the tank.
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81 Mercedes 300SD 289k.......SOLD
82 Mercedes 300CD 252k......slow ride

82 mercedes 300 SD...mi Unknown
83 Mercedes 300D ????ksniff..gone too
84 Mercedes 300D 148k........SOLD
85 Mercedes 300TD 386k and holding some one elses project
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  #7  
Old 01-29-2007, 04:34 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackG View Post
Thanks.....I would have just tried filling through the tank.
No prob. Search the forum for "burping" and you will see quite a few posts on that.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #8  
Old 01-29-2007, 08:02 AM
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Thermostat. Heat on max temp at full blast should hurt your hands should you dare place them close to the vents, and you should hear the laments of your suffocating passengers
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  #9  
Old 01-29-2007, 08:20 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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it could be new and still bad.

it happens occasionally.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #10  
Old 01-29-2007, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhills0146 View Post

Are there other ways besides the presence (or lack thereof) of cabin heat to tell if I'm looking at a cold-running 617 or just an inaccurate temp gauge? Or would you recommend just replacing the T-stat?
I wouldn't condemn the 'stat just yet. If the engine makes 60C., it's not stuck open.

If you fix your monovalve and get proper heat, the problem is the gauge. If you don't get heat (and you won't get much at 60C.), then I'd look to the thermostat.

If you can borrow an infrared temperature gun, it would provide your answer in about two seconds. The cylinder head typically runs 180-190F.
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  #11  
Old 01-29-2007, 10:50 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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The records on my car I bought this past July indicated T-Stat work done in May 2006. Well, my car would not get above 60 degrees on a cold day either. So, I checked the t-stat. That so called t-stat work was just a removal of the t-stat and placing the housing back on "sans a t-stat"
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #12  
Old 01-29-2007, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
The records on my car I bought this past July indicated T-Stat work done in May 2006. Well, my car would not get above 60 degrees on a cold day either. So, I checked the t-stat. That so called t-stat work was just a removal of the t-stat and placing the housing back on "sans a t-stat"

I like that. A new term. I've got a "sans-a-stat" installed on my vehicle.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2007, 11:00 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I like that. A new term. I've got a "sans-a-stat" installed on my vehicle.
Thanks! Yeah! With the new "Sans-a-Stat", cold running is virtually guaranteed in cold weather. I wonder how many of those I could sell?
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Last edited by rrgrassi; 01-29-2007 at 11:26 AM.
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2007, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Thanks! Yeah! With the new "Sans-a-Stat", cold running is virtually guranteed in cold weather. I wonder how many of those I could sell?
If you talk it up properly, you can probably sell a ton of them. The guys who have that "fuel" conditioner that attaches to a fuel line and breaks up the fuel molecules are probably retired by now...............
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2007, 11:42 AM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
If you talk it up properly, you can probably sell a ton of them. The guys who have that "fuel" conditioner that attaches to a fuel line and breaks up the fuel molecules are probably retired by now...............
You got that right. I saw the "Fuel Master" magnet on the Harbor Freight catalog. That all rates up there with the "Fuel Pills", which was just brown colored mothballs, and Diesel Secret Energy. The fuel pill people got shut down, luckily.

I have an idea...You make up a Stainless Steel "Sans-a-Stat" gasket that replaces "the old, worn out, out of date" T-stat housing gasket, and we can supply it to Lovecraft, guaranteeing "full coolant flow" to his "maintenance free" WVO filter system. I think $29.99 plus S+H is a fair price...
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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