How to Set IP Timing via the Drip Tube Method - Pictorial - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Scott98 · #1 02-04-2007, 01:19 PM

1. Turn the engine until the timing pointer is aligned with the specified start of delivery degrees on the balancer. Must be on beginning of compression stroke for #1 cylinder. See below for proper degrees.

Turbo Charged Engines: 23 to 25 degreees BTDC
Non Turbo Charged Engines:
615.913: 26 Degrees BTDC
615.912: 24 Degrees BTDC
616: 24 Degrees BTDC

See Pic 1. This is the 616 engine set on 24 degrees.

2. Open your oil cap and make sure both cam lobes are facing up to ensure you are on the beginning of the compression stroke. If not, rotate crank one more time. See Pic 2.

3. Remove the metal fuel lines. See Pic 3.

4. Remove the vacuum line from your shut off valve. See Pic 4.

5. Wire your throttle to full open. See Pic 5.

Scott98 · #2 02-04-2007, 01:24 PM

6. Mark the current position of your timing pump. In case something goes wrong, you can always reset it to where it was before. See Pic 6.

7. Loosen the injection pump mounting bolts (13mm). There are 4 total. Three where the pump bolts to the engine and one at the back of the pump. First bolt. See Pic 7.

8. Second bolt. See Pic 8.

9. Third bolt is accessible through the underside. See Pic 9.

10. Fourth bolt is at the back of the pump. See Pic 10.

Scott98 · #3 02-04-2007, 01:33 PM

11. Remove the pump element (15mm). See Pic 11.

12. Remove the spring. See Pic 12. There is also a delivery valve just under the spring. Remove it too.

13. Picture of the pump element, spring and delivery valve. See Pic 13.

14. Reinstall the pump element minus the spring and delivery valve. Install the drip tube on top of the pump element facing towards the engine. See pic 14.

15. Pump the hand pump until fuel is dripping out of the tube at a rate of 1 drop per second. Turn the IP towards or away from the engine to adjust the drip rate. Have a clock next to you to help time the drips. See Pic 15.

Once you're done, put it back together. Don't forget to reconnect your vacuum line and remove the wire from the throttle. Start your engine and check for leaks.

Good luck,

Scott

dieseldan44 · #4 02-04-2007, 01:37 PM

Wow. Thank you for takiing the time to put this together - it will be very helpful.

airbus · #5 02-04-2007, 01:43 PM

I just started a new thread because I couldn't find the spot where I get 1 droplet per second.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=178352

Within the range of adjustment there was always a steady stream or droplets at a very fast rate coming out. Any ideas?

#6 02-04-2007, 02:03 PM

Good guide!

However, I set mine at 26* BTDC instead of 24*.

Ara T. · #7 02-05-2007, 09:18 PM

Awesome pictorial, thanks. I might tackle this sometime.
Lance, was there a decent power increase?

#8 02-05-2007, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ara T.

Lance, was there a decent power increase?

Oh yes. Everything is much more smooth and no smoke now.

erubin · #9 02-10-2007, 01:48 AM

My 1982 300D turbo has gotten real weak in power when cold (OK when hot) and it smokes more than i'm used to when accelerating. When the car is cold I crawl up the 1/2 mile steep hill in front of my home. This has been the case for two years now. Since then (about 15,000 miles ago) I changed the two fuel filters, loaded Diesel Purge in main fuel filter and adjusted the valves. Things didn't get much better. The EGR has long been plugged as recommended. I will change the filters again and readjust the valves but maybe I should do the IP timing as well. Your write up will be my guide, but first does the method you provide instructions for apply to my 616 engine?

BTW even though i have the updated rack idle bolt (installed 40k miles ago) it seems to make little difference to the idle when adjusted.

Thanks

#10 02-10-2007, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erubin

but first does the method you provide instructions for apply to my 616 engine?

Your 300D has a 617.

PanzerSD · #11 02-10-2007, 02:05 AM

Awesome pictorial! it's ironic, I was just going to post a thread on how to time my pump

Lance, did you notice any differences in exhaust or general engine noise? how did 26 degrees effect idle? can I set my 617.950 to that? (non emissions)

#12 02-10-2007, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PanzerSD

Lance, did you notice any differences in exhaust or general engine noise? how did 26 degrees effect idle? can I set my 617.950 to that? (non emissions)

My timing was originally set way off from where it should have been so I can't really compare the change from 24 to 26.

My idle is great. It's smooth down to 500rpm even when cold. No reason you can't set yours to 26*. However, it will make starting in really cold weather a bit harder.

sailor15015 · #13 02-10-2007, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

My timing was originally set way off from where it should have been so I can't really compare the change from 24 to 26.

My idle is great. It's smooth down to 500rpm even when cold. No reason you can't set yours to 26*. However, it will make starting in really cold weather a bit harder.

So a more advanced timing will make it harder to start? I though it would be the other way around, since the fuel will be in the cylinder longer and absorb more of the heat from the compression.

#14 02-10-2007, 07:48 PM

Injecting early can let the diesel droplets condense before the starting compression reaches it's peak temperature.

There was a big difference in starting with mine, especially when really cold. When it would start with a bit of effort around 0*f with the retarded timing, advancing it makes me work a lot harder with glowplug time length and cranking strategy.