Help!! 83 300d engine/tranny removal

[hubmachine]

wish to pull engine/tranny on 83 300d. how would i go about...
searched threads and couldn't find anything.
many thanks
cliff

[rrgrassi]

It's pretty much like pulling any other engine, but you are better served by pulling the engine and tranny as a single unit.

[hubmachine]

looking for instruction. i have removed the tranny before by itself.
cliff

[rrgrassi]

Do you have a cheapo Haynes manual? That is a good place to start.

You will need a load balancer along with the engine hoist.

How are you wanting to pull it? All accesories attached or not?

[hubmachine]

The tranny is toast. selling car to junk man who is just going to crush it, so i am trying to pull as much stuff off before wife shoots me ive an 85 300d to keep on the road...

cliff

[Icefire]

Depending on what you want to save, If I had to do a quick pull, and all I cared about was the core engine, Id unbolt the engine mounts from below, with an 8mm allen, unbolt the engine shocks, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the tranny cross member, take off trans wiring (with snips)
Sawzall the exhaust,

cut or unbolt all coolant and electrical connection, and the throttle.

Cut everything that is not worth saving. Save the glowplug relay, monovalve etc.

hoist with trans still attached, then throw trans in trunk.

Should take about 2 hours if your handy,

[Larry Delor]

Since it is going to the junkyard, use a sawzall and cut that pesky piece of sheetmetal between the headlights (the one that has the VIN number & codes). This way you don't need a load leveler, nor do you have to lift the engine so far up.

[vstech]

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

Since it is going to the junkyard, use a sawzall and cut that pesky piece of sheetmetal between the headlights (the one that has the VIN number & codes). This way you don't need a load leveler, nor do you have to lift the engine so far up.

ahh, great tip for the parts car rusty beater.
John

[jfman]

Originally Posted by Larry Delor

Since it is going to the junkyard, use a sawzall and cut that pesky piece of sheetmetal between the headlights (the one that has the VIN number & codes). This way you don't need a load leveler, nor do you have to lift the engine so far up.

When I pulled the motor out of my parts 300D, That's what I did. It was a heck of a lot easier to pull that way. Made a world of difference.

Originally Posted by jfman

When I pulled the motor out of my parts 300D, That's what I did. It was a heck of a lot easier to pull that way. Made a world of difference.

That's what I did.

[jfman]

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

That's what I did.

That motor doesnt look stock

How's it run ?

Runs pretty darn good now that I have the injection timing set right.

The manifold in that picture is going back on next week.

[jfman]

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Runs pretty darn good now that I have the injection timing set right.

The manifold in that picture is going back on next week.

What happens when it's set wrong? (sorry I dont know much about tuning diesels)

My timing was set too retarded (Something like 22*BTDC). It was easy to start but it idled very rough, had alot of gray smoke when cold, high exhaust temperatures, and the idle speed had to be high for it to idle acceptably.