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#91
03-06-2007, 08:09 AM
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I just use a screwdriver, and push one piston in, change the pad, then push the other one in and repeat. put the pin and spring back in and go.
it makes it a little easier if you remove the MC cap first, also, if the brake fluid level is close to the full mark, I always drain a bid out first. John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!  1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! 
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#92
03-06-2007, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.
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#93
03-07-2007, 09:07 PM
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Hey Rino, check this thread. There is your sway links.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=181626
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--------------------------- No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf
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#94
03-08-2007, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
As you and others have suggested, I ordered the new type (HUGE difference in price...) They'll be here tomorrow. I'll install them tomorrow night and also do the brakes... Hopefully, these two changes will take care of the noise issues in my car permanently. I'll post results here later... Take care Mark, Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.
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#95
03-10-2007, 02:58 PM
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Update...
OK, early this morning (3:30 am) I replaced the rear brake pads with new ones, put in brand new pad shims, put in 4 new muffler hangers (two were missing anyway) and put in two brand new sway bar links (by the way, Mark, you were absolutely right... the cheap type - I paid $8 each - works wonderfully in the place of the old, expensive ones - THANKS!!!
 ) As I mentioned previously, the old sway bar link that was on the right side of the car was torn apart and, as far as functionality, as if not there at all, while the one on the left side was damaged but still performing some, I suppose.Well, after doing the above, I've driven the car extensively today: NO MORE clunking/banging noise on right turns, and the rumbling noise IS GONE! (as noted earlier, the metal-grinding noise from the right wheel I was very concerned about disappeared after I had put the car on stands, taken off the wheels, pulled out the old brake pads and shims, and then reassembled the car with the same exact components...). The car now handles perfectly when making turns. I suppose all this has to do with having replaced those faulty sway bar links: the difference is H-U-G-E... nothing short of miraculous! Honestly, it's like driving a different car... Now what remains to be seen is whether the old caliper/rotor combo installed in the car keeps wearing the pads at an angle... But I have a feeling, after inspecting the old pad shims, that it might had been caused by those home-made shims getting stuck somewhere inside the calipers... Those "shims" were very rusty, thick pieces of metal, cut unevenly and hard to pull out and fit in... I have no idea what kind of sub-human previous owner could have come up with the idea of using those in the calipers... Well, we'll see what happens after a while... Oh, one more thing. The 13mm bolts right in the middle of the rotor holder that become exposed once the wheels are taken off were kind of loose on both rear sides... So I just tightened them up... In retrospect, I probably should have taken off those rotors and look for anything else that might have been loose under them, but I didn't... Thank you so much all of you who have contributed your wisdom here... thanks to you I am now a very happy MB owner! Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.
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