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  #1  
Old 03-15-2007, 08:59 PM
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Question 1)Dash light issues 2) break in unknown hose

I have a couple more issues...

1) The instrument panel lights basically don't work, the instrument panel is totally black when the headlights are on. I uh....jiggled the clock knob on the panel and momentarily they came on...once. When I turn on my headlights, the arrows for hazards turn on steady (not flashing), the high beam indicator and glow plug light come on and all the temp gauge pegs at 120.

When I turn my turn signal on, with the headlights on, all the gauges click back and forth in time with the turn signal light.

I guess I am going to have to pull the instrument panel...but, is there anything in particular to look for other than melted or loose wiring?

2)Also, it is too dark to take a digital picture...but there is a break on a medium sized rubber hose next to the power break booster, on the left side as you are facing it. I have been able to find a picture of it in the manual, but no identification.

Anyone know what it is, and what a break there could cause? It looks awfully large for a vacuum line, but there's no fluid in it.

Sorry if these are inane questions, but I appreciate any help. Thanks,

Reverendxlt

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  #2  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:11 PM
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ok.......I guess they were too inane...
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:25 PM
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Hose entering the brake booster on the left side (right side from the driver's seat) is the vacuum line.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
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  #4  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:28 PM
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looks awfully big to be a vacuum line...at least 1"...I know i know its not metric...in diameter

It's way bigger than any other vacuum line I've seen. Also, doesn't appear to be actually connected to the brake booster, just next to it on the passenger side fo the vehicle.
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:33 PM
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Main vacuum line to the brake booster is pretty big. Not 1" but far bigger than any of the other vacuum lines. Around 3/4". Comes from the vacuum pump on the front of the engine.
If it's broken or unhooked you wont have power brakes or door locks, or ignition shut off etc.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reverendxlt View Post
looks awfully big to be a vacuum line...at least 1"...I know i know its not metric...in diameter
For reference 1" = 25.4mm's.

Cant help with the instrument lights but can tell you my 85 does the exact same thing. Headlights on, all dash lights off and all gauges go wacky. Its probably a bad ground?
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reverendxlt View Post
looks awfully big to be a vacuum line...at least 1"...I know i know its not metric...in diameter

.
Sounds like the cowl drain hose. Is there one on the other side, too?
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:38 PM
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don't think so...

of course, I had somebody change the oil about a week ago...when I left it, the key would turn it off. since that time I have had to pop the hood to do the stop lever dance each time. I'm guessing they broke it at that time.
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  #9  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:53 PM
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Hose travelling in a vertical direction beside the brake booster is the cowl drain hose. It's not unusual for people to dislodge a vacuum line while changing the oil. Check for loose lines around the oil filter housing.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #10  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:56 PM
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ok...I guess we are talking about the same one then. Yeah, they messed up several smaller ones that were in a junction together, but I didn't catch it until I left. This is more of a cut, that looks like they leaned on it and cracked it or something.
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  #11  
Old 03-16-2007, 12:32 AM
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If you can wiggle the knob and your dash lights would work, that identifies a common problem in these cars, a bad rheostat. Most people just solder a wire across it and leave it. However, I also think you have a ground issue because the headlight/instrument light circuit is backfeeding through your gauges and lights. This would be the first problem you need to attack, as it can cause the dash lights to not work also. You first need to pull the cluster and make sure the steel backings are all clean and tight where the sections join, this is part of the ground circuit, also make sure your connector pins on the board have good solder joints and arent corroded. A quick easy way to check a bad ground is to put a cliplead jumper between the backing and something metal on the chassis, problem should disappear when you do this. In worst case if the test works you will know its a ground issue for sure, if you can't get it fixed, you can always add a grounding wire with a ring terminal to one of the backing screws. After that is fixed the dash lights may start working again, if not, then its time to look at the rheostat.
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2007, 12:37 AM
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rheostat being the "dimmer" switch on the left of the instrument panel?
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2007, 09:19 AM
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Yes.
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  #14  
Old 03-16-2007, 09:22 AM
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Thanks, I appreciate the help a lot.

Reverendxlt

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