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#1
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Also, remove the radiator fan shroud clips. I ordered my mounts from Fastlane. Left and right side are the same part. Also replace your engine shocks and the tranny mount for good measure.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#2
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disconnect any linkages that might get bent when having to jack up the engine. i had a terrible time getting the new drivers side in, i had to remove the engine shock to get enough clearance to slide it in.
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1980 300D |
#3
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If you're going through the trouble to change the mounts, might as well change the engine shocks while you're there, especially if they never have been.
Speaking of shocks, you should at least unscrew one end, since at some point of jacking up the engine to get the mount out, you can reach the maximum extension of the shocks & maybe damage them. The oil cooler line being cut by the power steering belt is a very real possibility. That's why I had to change my mounts. If the hose is worn, it might be best to replace it while you have the engine up for the mounts. A ruptured oil cooler hose is messy.
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marshall 1982 300TD (220,000 mi.) |
#4
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You may need a breaker bar for the 8mm mount to engine bolts – be very careful if you have a problem to make sure the 8mm hex bit is seated correctly in the bolt head. Clean the cross member support well before installing the new mounts. Try to keep diesel and oil from dripping on the new mounts, that's why the driver’s side dies first. Your engine will be very smooth with the new mounts and sit correctly in the engine bay.
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#5
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I need to do the mounts in my wagon urgently, but just found out that the engine shocks are quite a bit of money. So I'd like to put them off, but I'm wondering what the difference is between bad mount symptoms and bad engine shock symptoms. How can I tell if I really need to replace the shocks, too, at this point?
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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD 1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver) 1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD 1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50 |
#6
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I would say that the mounts are more important than the shocks, particularly as far as motor alignment in the compartment goes...
Having bad shocks will just be that much less dampening of engine vibration and the greater vibration from old shocks is more likely to lead to premature wear of the new engine mounts...so just change 'em when you can afford it (sooner the better, of course) and don't sweat it for now.
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marshall 1982 300TD (220,000 mi.) |
#7
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Quote:
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1980 300D |
#8
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mine doesn't shake at all. there is no shake/vibration during idle either, actually less than my other cars, but you can see that the mounts are all cracked up, and when you drive slowly, go over bumps, sudden steep incline, anything where the engine gets jolted around a bit, it grinds and clonks....
i think i'm just to do the mounts for now
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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD 1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver) 1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD 1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50 |
#9
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actually, i think getting oil undercoated a few weeks ago pushed the mounts over the edge. not sure, but that's my sense. i'm sure they were pretty shot to begin with.
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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD 1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver) 1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD 1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50 |
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