Tried adding fuel (I added a lot of fuel to the pavement, too ... ugh), no go. I let it crank for a good while, 15 seconds or so, and it just didn't seem to be going anywhere. About 40 degrees today. I am so bummed over this. I will try again tomorrow, when it's going to be 65 degrees out. That might make the difference.

Didn't get a chance to change the fuel filter; might try that tomorrow. Considering the engine is already having a tough time starting, would it make it even harder when it has to prime after I put the new filter on? Only thing that makes a fuel delivery issue seem unlikely is that I have not seen any of the performance or idle problems you guys mention with such issues. Just the no start.

I'll wager a set of Euro lights that it's one of the following:

1) Bad strip fuse in the GP relay.

2) Bad GP relay.

Have you tested for +12v present AT THE GLOW PLUGS while glowing? The car is almost impossible to start without functional GP's. BT, DT, have the t-shirt....

:silly:

Have not tried that ... just tested at the relay pins (got about 12.49 on each). Do you need to pull the GP to get an accurate reading or can you poke the probe in where the wire connects?

No need to pull the plugs - just touch the meter lead to the nut on the end, look for 10-11v.

Also do a GP resistance check with the harness unplugged from the relay. At the plugs you should read 0.6 ohms, or under 1.0 anyway. At the 6-pin connector it may read around 1.0 ohms. Anything higher and you may have bad plugs. What brand are in there, and how old are they? It sounds like you have at least 2 known bad plugs, right? You're going to have to bite the bullet and replace all 6 with Bosch or Beru (avoid Autolite or Monark). The car may not start if you only have 2 or 3 functional plugs.

:(

Replace all the suction side fuel lines -- bet they are cracked and leaking, allowing air in and the fuel to drain back into the tank. Will cause very difficult starting due to fuel starvation.

Replace all six glowplugs, too -- if two have died, the rest are going fast.

Replace fuel filters -- if the pre-filter is cruddy, the main filter is likely plugged or nearly so, it's much finer.

Do not, ever, use ether on an MB diesel unless you want to rebuild the engine, it will almost always fracture the ring lands on the compression ring.

Peter

That was what led me to find the two bad plugs ... both tested infinite on the multimeter (plugs 1 and 3) ... the others all tested around .9, although one kind of waffled between .9 and 1.2. I thought, and my indy agreed, that two bad plugs should not completely stop the car from starting in 50 degrees ... but, I suspect there is more than just the two that are sub par. Or, like you said, it's the relay.

Here's a question: I do not think I can replace the plugs myself (well, I am sure I CAN, but considering my lack of tools and experience and where the car is parked, I think it may not be the time to try), all of them that is. What if I were to replace just the #1? Would that help it start enough to get it to my indy, so he can do the rest? Just an idea. Obviously, some of the plugs are less of a bear than others ... :eek:

Be sure to glow it for the full cycle (approx. 35 seconds) before attempting the start. Crank it for 20 seconds. If it won't go, there are other more complex issues than two bad glow plugs.

If your battery is getting weak, charge it, since the starter needs to spin the engine as fast as possible.

WD-40 is a viable option instead of ether.

Try why Brian says first, after checking for 12v at the plugs. If extended glows still won't let it light, with a fully charged battery, tow it to your indy for six new Bosch/Beru plugs. (Triple-A Plus towing is well worth the annual cost, btw!)

You have checked the 80A strip fuse, right? That can fracture almost invisibly, allowing enough voltage to show +12v at the relay pins with no load, but zero volts under load. This is a very common failure.

:pirate:

Checked the strip fuse with the ignition OFF, but checked the pins with it on. So, I will try testing the fuse with it ON and see what I get there.

I found that AAA will send out a "battery rescue" truck to test and, if necessary, recharge the battery. I think is going to be step one. I did leave the new battery sitting in the back of my other car for a good while, during which it got pretty cold ... I am not real wise about batteries, but I have to wonder if this less-than-intelligent storage plan didn't drain it a bit. I'd take it out and get it tested at Autozone, but I literally can't pull it out ... took all I had to get the old one out and new one in ... being a 105-pound girl DOES have it's disadvantages ...

If that doesn't help ... I'll just tell the battery guys, "go home and send the tow guy.":fork_off:

Have you checked the voltage at the battery? You should just replace the glow strip fuse. Buy a few as they are only a buck or so, replace the one there and keep at least one in the glove box.

Replacing the glow plugs is not particularly fun. With the right assortment of extensions people say that it is possible to do so w/o removing the intake manifold given some patience... Once the intake manifold is off the plugs are easy... but the intake manifold is a pain itself.

Have you tried plugging in the block heater for an hour or so?

Took the battery to AutoZone and they said the charge was low, so it's getting charged. They did say they didn't think that would cause it to not start, and that it was more likely that the charge was low because of all the cranking, but I figured it's NOT going to help matters to have low charge. Getting juiced up as we speak, so maybe that'll be enough ... :o

I'm sure all the cranking along with the cold had helped to weaken the battery, however a low battery will keep the car from starting. You figured correctly about the low charge.

AAA plus is also a good option. I have it and I paid $123 for it.

I take it the car is parked where an extension cord will not reach? I have a 100 foot cord and a battery charger/start booster in my trunk.

I also installed the power cord to the factory installed block heater. I have new glow plugs now, but you almost don't need them if the block heater has been plugged in. The heater can generally keep your coolant/block at 50+ deg C (122+ deg F). Makes for a nice and easy start. In 50 degree weather it should be able to heat the car to 50+ C in just a hour or two.

Obviously this is not a long term solution, but is an option.

-Jim

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=21M0N4V6G21M0N5A6C&year=1987&make=MB&model=300-DT-002&category=All&part=Block+Heater+Cord

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=76493

Charging the battery did not help. This car is not going to start. :( I'll give it a few hours to see if the temperatures come up (it's still 40 ... so much for 65), then call AAA.

jadavis ... as far as I know my car does not have a block heater. Plus I have nowhere to plug in ... unless I use A LOT of extension cords!