I just added a link in the post above:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=76493

It is a thread that shows the location and how to wire in the heater cord. I also added a link to the heater cord.

Your car came from the factory with the block heater installed. The plug has a threaded cap on it that has kept the pins nice and clean for the last 20 years.

Too bad it is not near an electrical outlet!

-Jim

I had the same problem
 

BohdiBenz,
I had the same problem (along with a hunting idle) and was able to get it started by removing the fuel cap. After I got it to running, it really struggled to stay "alive". When I opened the fuel cap there was a strong "whoosh". I believe it was due to a clogged/inop tank pressure relief valve. Now, it runs as long as I have the fuel cap off. Do that and see if it helps...along with the other suggestions from the others.

Clint

Time to replce the fuel cap. It is supposed to be like a one way air valve. Air is allowed in, but not out.

After you get the battery charged, try checking for +12v at the plugs again. I'm still suspecting the 80A strip fuse. Try removing it... it often comes out in two pieces. If you have at least 3 good glow plugs that are heating, it should at least try to fire, if you let it glow 30-60 seconds. Also crank it with your foot on the floor.

:1blank:

Hey did you get your car started? Has anyone heard from Him?



Cardude

Yes ... :D ... sorry I keep meaning to update, but it's been a crazy weekend (I work weekends). Thursday I tried everything, would not start even when it reached 60 degrees out ... felt like it was getting close, though. So I drove down to my mechanic in my other car to make sure it was OK to have Bodhi towed over there that afternoon. Well, he asked where I was having it towed from, and I told him it was only about half-mile away (I had just moved recently) ... he knew exactly where my apartment building is, so he just offered to come and get it at the end of the day. I left him with the key, and a few hours later, when I came down to leave for work (I live on the 14th floor), Bodhi was gone. 24 hours later, Bodhi reappeared in my parking lot, the key left with my doorman. :D All fixed, and I'm assuming it was just the glow plugs. I have not had a chance to talk to my mechanic yet, as it was the weekend, but I'll find out tomorrow when I go to pay him. Nice guy ... he went out of his way to help, and got the car back to me without even discussing payment. He knows I'm good for it ... :cool: .

Much thanks for all the help, guys. I'll give another update when I find out exactly what the situation was. I'm curious to know if ALL plugs were bad ... I think they really had to be, because it was SO stubborn.

Hey Bodhi,

Have you tried it with 2 cycles just out of curiousity.

I don't know the firing order off hand but if 1 and 3 come after or before one another that could amplify the problem of having only two plugs out of comission. If it was running fine before they crapped out then you are probably in good shape.
As for the cranking time, Angel has got it right.
It may seem like an eternity but give it a good crank for 5-10 seconds, 15-20 being the max.
After doing a crank like that (or two is okay) then let the starter rest so as not to put it at risk for a burn out. Sit there and fiddle with something else for a minute for good measure.
(Not to insult but when you "key over" the glow plugs two times to really get things hot, naturally wait until the light goes out on both times- then hit the starter-that may be completely obvious though.)
IMHO- MB diesel starters are pretty beefy. They can handle that crank time.

-Pat

This advice is incorrect and unnecessary.

The idiot light has no connection as to the length of time that the glow plugs are powered.

The relay will typically allow for about 35 seconds. It makes an audible and quite loud click when it disengages.

The best procedure is to glow it one time for the full 35 seconds. The second the relay drops out, turn the key to start.

Glowing for another 35 seconds is unnecessary.

Perhaps I am mistaken Brian,
but on my SD the glow plug relay light isn't just an idiot light,
it also stays lit for a varying amount of time in regards to how cold it is.
When it is 30 degrees out it will stay lit for longer than 60.
I believe that it measures in some round about way the resistance and keeps the light lit for shorter/longer depending.
I didn't mean wait for another 35 seconds after the first go around.
Sorry if I was unclear

No big deal- its back and running :)

I just wait for the click. With the exception of this recent situation, that has always worked for me, even when it was below zero degrees a couple of times. I had the darndest time explaining to my dad that you wait for the relay to click ... he kept insisting I was waiting too long, and that that was why the car wouldn't start. He eventually listened, though ... he knows I get my info from good sources. :cool: .

The light will remain on for varying time depending on the ambient temperature. However, the light and the relay are independent.

I don't believe the light is on for 60 seconds on your SD. This would make no sense whatsoever because the relay drops out at approx. 35 seconds.

Thanks for the reply, look forward to hearing your findings from your indie.



Cardude

Thanks Guys,

I definitely learned something on that one.

Did he replace all the glow plugs after all?



Cardude

I believe that if you wait for the relay to time out (loud click) and THEN crank the engine, it will be cranking with no voltage applied to the plugs. I never checked to see if the relay turns the plugs back on when you start cranking or not. The easy way around this is to let it glow until the relay clicks off, then quickly turn the key all the way off, then start cranking immediately. This would re-set the glow cycle and guarantee the plugs are on while cranking.

Note that for models with factory afterglow (all from 1990-up) the timeout is 60 seconds. The 1995-up models have up to 180 seconds of afterglow. This wouldn't apply to the OM617 or the OM603.960/961 engines in stock form.

Here's the FSM section on the afterglow function, complete with neat graphs of the time/temp relationships, etc and all the factory data:
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/602_603/15-0705.pdf
(~400kb PDF file)

:kid: