marvel mystery oil

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82' 300SD

Pull the injector. A fairly easy task but you will need the crush washer replacement. When you look inside you should see a light bulb type thingey sticking out. On #4 and #5 of my engine they are just etched nubs. Nobody seems to know why they break etc, I wonder if its because of higher acidity in the fuel these days? Perhaps its eating away the metal?

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I have wondered if their would be any benifit obtained by shutting engine down half way through a purge. Then just let everthing soak for an hour or so and restart to complete the purge.
It would give the solvent a better chance of dissolving stubborn stuff perhaps. I do not suspect there is any downside for such a short period. Any thoughts?

vstech swears by putting mmo in the PCs. I think it might not be a good idea to let it sit in the IP to long?

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I let DP sit in the IP and inj's overnight when I do a purge. Don't see why you couldnt do the same with MMO; read the label, it's good for everything and probably even safe enough to mix with your favorite tonic after dinner too.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Not letting it sit in the pump with those seals also crossed my mind. On the otherhand I have never heard of even one person complaining they did a purge and the pump leaked afterwards. It would also be soaking and cleaning the injectors as well.
If we only knew the chemical mix and ratios involved it might help to formulate an intelligent choice. But that appears to be a mystery.
One other choice perhaps is to warm the engine up to operating temperature. Then do the purge. The additional heat if any would make the chemicals a lot more active for the period of exposure in there. The seal consideration rears it's ugly head again though. One could put the purge into hot water to warm it before use as well. At 120 degrees it is far more active than at room temperature.
A member proved it really dissolved carbon but took time to do it. The member sat the carboned injectors in a tray and reported it worked away slowly.

I add 2 quarts to my fuel tank every few months. It is time to do this again. I also add some to the crankcase oil to help clean out the passage ways etc. It also helps clean valves etc. I don't see the harm.

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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why.

1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
1987 300TD wagon
1996 HD Road King

Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

No worries about the decreased viscosity or the naptha, xylene and other solvents going into the crank case?

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend