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  #1  
Old 04-02-2007, 12:43 PM
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Thanks, Jim and Dave....

I looked at the flx discs closely and they both appear to be in very good shape. Can't say if they have been replaced b4. I thought about replacing but the front one appears to be a PITA to get at.

Thanks for the confirmation. I always like to understand a mechanism b4 messing with it.

I believe there's a lock ring washer somewhere that also needs to be removed.

Thanks again and please post if y'all think of sumthin' else..
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Last edited by tobybul; 04-02-2007 at 03:58 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2007, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
.....I believe there's a lock ring washer somewhere that also needs to be removed.

Thanks again and please post if y'all think of sumthin' else..

George,

There is a lock/snap ring you need to remove to get the bearing out. Using the puller depends if the bearing is stubborn or not.

I know it is a PITA, but I only pulled the whole shaft out. But I guess you can slide it out of the spline. To get the drive shaft out you need to remove the mount and since your are replacing the mount you can get at the flex disk just use a "flex" socket and you should be able to get at it.

Good Luck.

Richard
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2007, 09:17 PM
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Thanks RM

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmarzan View Post
George,

There is a lock/snap ring you need to remove to get the bearing out. Using the puller depends if the bearing is stubborn or not.

I know it is a PITA, but I only pulled the whole shaft out. But I guess you can slide it out of the spline. To get the drive shaft out you need to remove the mount and since your are replacing the mount you can get at the flex disk just use a "flex" socket and you should be able to get at it.

Good Luck.

Richard
Glad you said it... that the tranny mount has to be removed to get to the front flex disc. Seemed like about the only way I saw to do it.

Still thinking am not gonna mess with the front FD since it looks pretty good.
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  #4  
Old 04-08-2007, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rmarzan View Post
George,

There is a lock/snap ring you need to remove to get the bearing out. Using the puller depends if the bearing is stubborn or not.

I know it is a PITA, but I only pulled the whole shaft out. But I guess you can slide it out of the spline. To get the drive shaft out you need to remove the mount and since your are replacing the mount you can get at the flex disk just use a "flex" socket and you should be able to get at it.
Rich, hopefully its still fresh in your mind... how much pushing forward of the driveshaft did you have to do to get it free from the pinion shaft (the stubby shaft coming out of the differential). This thing looks like its sticking out about an 1 1/2 inches..

So, as you can see, I have not lowered the shaft yet so have not gotten to the snap ring. The tranny mount is off but am not putting it back on till the shaft is back on.

Thanks for the help...
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2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
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  #5  
Old 04-08-2007, 10:31 PM
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Center bearing

Love the pic of Toby

The drive shaft is something of a tight fit. Did you remove the center mount? I had to remove the parking brake in order to allow the drive shaft to flex enough to make it in or out.

Since this started as a vibration issue, let me make a suggestion. This comes from experience. When you have the driveshaft out, check the u-joint for a notch. Move the joint slowly from side to side to see if it has a notch in the centered position. Test both axes of rotation. If it does have a notch, you will need to replace the entire shaft, as the (bad) u-joint is pressed in. The vibration you were feeling, and a busted mount were exactly what I witnessed on my car. If it is notched return the new bearing and mount, as the new driveshaft will come with them.

You can remove the flex disc without removing the tranny mount. Your choice.
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  #6  
Old 04-08-2007, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury View Post
Love the pic of Toby

The drive shaft is something of a tight fit. Did you remove the center mount? I had to remove the parking brake in order to allow the drive shaft to flex enough to make it in or out.

Since this started as a vibration issue, let me make a suggestion. This comes from experience. When you have the driveshaft out, check the u-joint for a notch. Move the joint slowly from side to side to see if it has a notch in the centered position. Test both axes of rotation. If it does have a notch, you will need to replace the entire shaft, as the (bad) u-joint is pressed in. The vibration you were feeling, and a busted mount were exactly what I witnessed on my car. If it is notched return the new bearing and mount, as the new driveshaft will come with them.

You can remove the flex disc without removing the tranny mount. Your choice.
Thanks. Yes the mount is off. It will be replaced when I'm done. I'll attempt to lower the shaft again next time. From what i can see I don't think its necessary to remove the prkg brake but we'll see.

I don't exactly know what you mean by notch. Are you referring to a mark of some type or a lateral play on the u-joint? I believe the vib is caused by a degraded center support. The rubber is pretty broken up. I'll take a pic of it when I have the ds off. I'm praying its not what you had

Thanks so much for the suggestions...
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  #7  
Old 04-08-2007, 11:43 PM
1984 300d
 
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Feel the notch

Sorry for not being clear. The notch is something that you hope you cannot feel. As you slowly move the joint on 1 axis/hinge, from side to side, you MIGHT feel a detent, catch, or notch in the joint, near the center. It will be very soft. Mine had the same symptoms, and I went through the same set of repairs. I had a bad transmission mount, and bearing support, that were easy to visually confirm had failed. Don't know the order of failure, but the end result was that all 3 (driveshaft, support, and tranny mount) had to be replaced.

If you can get the driveshaft off of both front and rear flex discs, then there is no need to remove the parking brake. This is only necessary if you think you have to force something, as the extra space will allow you to bend the shaft enough to 'shorten' it.

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  #8  
Old 04-09-2007, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
Rich, hopefully its still fresh in your mind... how much pushing forward of the driveshaft did you have to do to get it free from the pinion shaft (the stubby shaft coming out of the differential). This thing looks like its sticking out about an 1 1/2 inches..

So, as you can see, I have not lowered the shaft yet so have not gotten to the snap ring. The tranny mount is off but am not putting it back on till the shaft is back on.

Kababayan, I see what your problem is. When I removed my driveshaft, I had the differential lowered a bit. This allowed space to get past yoke pin. But since you are not touching the differential. What you need to do is push the driveshaft back into the yoke to its orginal position. Then your going to have to disconnect the shaft from the transmission end. There is no pin there so you can easily slide it out. Once you have it disconnected from the transmission side, you can move the driveshaft forward to clear that pin.

Good luck.
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  #9  
Old 04-02-2007, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
Thanks, Jim and Dave....



I believe there's a lock ring washer somewhere that also needs to be removed.
Dont be surprised if you dont find one. Mine did not come with one. You will also need something to put the bearing in place. I think i used a 6" 1 1/4 pipe to put mine. It was somewhat crude. Others might have an idea to set the bearing. Mark the 4 flanges. They should be assembled exactly the same way you took them out. Use white paint.
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  #10  
Old 04-02-2007, 09:19 PM
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Dont be surprised if you dont find one. Mine did not come with one. You will also need something to put the bearing in place. I think i used a 6" 1 1/4 pipe to put mine. It was somewhat crude. Others might have an idea to set the bearing. Mark the 4 flanges. They should be assembled exactly the same way you took them out. Use white paint.
Good point on the bearing. They got to be pushed in evenly I presume.

By flanges, are you referring to the back end of the driveshaft that connects to the flex disc?

BTW, I believe there is no need to remove the rear flex disc either, right?
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2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2007, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post

By flanges, are you referring to the back end of the driveshaft that connects to the flex disc?
Yes, sorry. I dont know what the ends of the drive shaft is called. If you are not removing the flex plates, just mark the position of the driveshaft and flexplate. I dont recall it anymore but I might have marked the position of the front to back driveshaft too.
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