1983 front motor mount bolts HELP ! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

davidh · #1 09-03-2009, 05:01 PM

im trying to extract the engine and transmission from a rusty hulk of a 300d. i burned everything around the radiator, and have the fan looking at me now. im underneath and see the tiny shocks that are part of the motor mount but i cannot see anyactual bolt heads holding the big rubber mounts to the "frame rails". where the h#%& are they ? or arre the little shocks all that hold the engine in place in the front and the rear crossmember mount is what actually hold every body from moving too far ?

rumandcoke · #2 09-03-2009, 05:11 PM

On my '82 300SD they are kind of recessed. I believe I used an extension and a 10mm hex socket to get my off...could have been a different size, but I do know mine were hex. If someone can't provide a better explanation, I am actually putting my new engine in tonight and have to put the bolts in, I can take some pictures. I am going to assume that the process is similar between the two body styles...

Oh, and there are two bolts, one on each side that bolt up into the metal engine mounts that come from the engine. The upper shock mounts need to be removed as well, but they don't hold th engine in place at all.

vlado · #3 09-03-2009, 05:14 PM

you have one large hole under your engine mount.inside you will find bolt (this is from bottom) and from top you will find two small bolts for rubber piece to be removed. i hope this helps

bigfredb · #4 09-03-2009, 06:30 PM

If you can get under the car, you only need to take out the big bolt that attaches the mount 'arm' to the engine mount. It is accessible through a whole in the frame. I believe it needs an 8mm hex (might be 10). (you need to remove the engine shocks as well.)

OR

There are two bolts (6mm hex) that are at each end of the engine mount (on top of the frame). Both are accessible from the top. If the mount is crumbline, you may have to dig out the rubber. You probably want to lift up the engine a bit as well to get better access to the bolts closer to the engine. (need to remove engine shocks here too)

ImBroke · #5 09-03-2009, 06:46 PM

The top two (6mm hex) could be hidden under a metal shield. The bottom (8mm hex) is as has been said accessed via a hole in the framerail. Make sure they are cleaned out very well before trying to apply any torque, or you'll end up regretting it. No allen wrenches here, allen sockets with the proper sized tips. The shocks are 10mm nuts on the bottom, but you have to hold the shock shaft on top with I think a 3/16" wrench, right where it meets the frame rail, unless you jack the engine up some. It's sort of tricky to do at first, but once you have it out, you'll see how easy it is. Go Bucky!!

davidh · #6 09-04-2009, 12:42 PM

thanks very much. worked like i knew what i was doing. . . . the big lift tonite. . . yea !

charmalu · #7 09-05-2009, 01:55 AM

One thing to keep in mind when removing the bottom 10mm nut off the engine shock, and then lowering the engine after finishing what ever you were doing.

I removed the 10mm nuts, large washer and rubber piece. lifted the engine to replace the oil cooler lines.

when I lowered the engine, I didn`t pay any attention to the shocks lining up with the hole they drop into.

I get all done, and see the shock shoved up through the top mount

. well that is a $50 fix

.

Luckly the nice people in the parts dept at PNP had a supply for me

.
It`s a crap shoot, but every once in a while a good one shows up.

A 7mm also fits the flats on the shock shaft to hold it from turning when removing the lower 10mm nut..

Charlie