My radiator puked tonight. It's a Behr. It broke at the top, plastic broke. The same thing happened on my E320 1995 and the mechanic I had then replaced it with one that was not made of plastic at the connections. Anyone have any recommendations for one that is built to last and not the plastic crap? I looked at the parts tab here and the two they had were plastic and I also did a search with no results. (can never figure out the search here) Thanks, Lance

Here you go:

http://www.wizardcooling.com/

But, like most others, you'll settle for the plastic.

I tried the link and it produced no results. If I have to go with plastic, is there any difference between Behr and Nissens? It seems like such a stupid design -- it just breaks off. I'm not a mechanic but is changing a radiator on a '83 ez? Should I try? I looked for DIY articles and couldn't find any. It really doesn't look that difficult but not sure about getting the old out and the new in. Thanks, Lance

Did you call them on the phone and ask about a radiator for your vehicle?

If not, how can you dismiss the link in such a cavalier manner?

These fellows make a very professional solid aluminum radiator although it's not cheap.

I just used their site and no calling because it's Sunday night late here in Miami. I guess I'm still steaming from the breakage. lol I was able to reclamp just to get her home safely.

........yep, I kind of figured that out........it's Sunday night late here.......as well........

Replacing the radiator isn't very difficult, I replaced mine in about an hour. Drain coolant, disconnect hoses, disconnect transmission lines, move fan shield out of way, remove top oil cooler bracket, remove clips from radiator, and lift straight up. That's about it, installation is the reverse. This is a good time to replace hoses and coolant too. I also considered a metal radiator, but I didn't want to wait to order one, so I just tossed in another OEM. I did notice that my operating temperature decreased by about 5C with the new radiator, so it was due anyway. Maybe I'll plan ahead a little and get a metal one next time. BTW, don't over-tighten the hose clamps on the new radiator necks.

Craig is right on. Its very easy. I would just add that there are two brackets connecting the oil cooler to the radiator (upper and LOWER), they are 10mm bolts. The hose clamps should be 7mm bolts (if they are original). The transmission cooler lines are 19mm (17mm?). Have a drip pan ready for tranny fluid and something to plug the tranny lines with, maybe a pencil stub.

So:

1) Drain coolant from the radiator plug (blue plug on the drivers side) ~ 4 liters. Take the cap off the expansion tank AFTER you've pulled the plug.
2) Disconnect the three coolant hoses at the radiator (one upper, two lower).
3) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines, plug the lines.
4) Disconnect the upper and lower brackets between the oil cooler and the radiator.
5) Pry the (2) clips off that connect the fan shroud to the radiator, pull the fan shroud up a little bit and move it back out of your way. Don't try to remove it from the car.
6) Pry the (2) clips off that hold the radiator to the car. Lift the radiator up and out.
Installation is the reverse.

Actually, I only have to remove the top bracket on my car (82 300D). The radiator just lifts out of the bottom bracket without even loosening it. I don't know if they are all like that.

www.radiator.com try them. they have the unit that has the upgraded metal rings in the radiator hose tubes. They start at 99.00 and include a lifetime warranty.

Now this is weard. I clicked into this web site to see what they have.
entered MB then year and model etc... lists three places here in Santa Cruz. but it says "chuck, do you need a price quote.?" "chuck, do you
know your engine size?" then I tried 300SD and the same thing.
Now I don`t ever go by chuck, but this is strange.
see if they use your name.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

LOL, it's not calling you Chuck, Chuck is the name of the "virtual" sales rep you were chatting with.

It didn't say, "Chuck, do you need a price quote?"

It said, "Chuck: Do you need a price quote?" like chuck was chatting with you.

Cute.

I have my parts for the radiator change but have a question. At the bottom of the radiator there are four holes, one big one, two smaller ones to the left of that and then another one that is to the right of the big hole. I got a replacement hose for the big hole but should I put new hoses for the other connections? I haven't gotten underneath the car yet to assess. And can I do this without jacking it up? Another thing, when I attach the hoses with the clamps, do I have to put any kind of lube inside the hose to help it seal or not? Thanks! I'm sure I'll be back with questions and I really appreciate your help. I also bought a new reservoir tank and cap. One more thing, I bought a new thermostat. Where does that go? Thanks, Lance

Lance,

No lube is necessary for the hoses. Just tighten the clamp snug, but not crushingly tight.

I'm guessing that two of the ports on the radiator bottom are threaded? These are for the transmission cooler lines.

The other two ports are for the lower radiator hose (big port) and the hose from the expansion tank (small port).

The thermostat goes in the thermostat housing, at the other end of the upper radiator hose. There are three 10 mm bolts that hold the t-stat housing together. Open the t-stat housing, remove the old t-stat and its associated o-ring. Replace with new t-stat and o-ring in same orientation. There is a small arrow stamped on the rim of the t-stat, it should point up (or forward) when you put the t-stat in (depending on the orientation of teh t-stat housing). Be careful not to over torque the 10 mm bolts when reinstalling the t-stat housing cover (I broke one off once).

"They" say you should test the new t-stat in a pot of hot water before you install it, noting the temp at which it begins to open and that it opens fully. A seemingly large percentage of new thermostats cause the car to run hot. (I had two in a row, and finally put in an old thermostat.)

"I'm guessing that two of the ports on the radiator bottom are threaded? These are for the transmission cooler lines."

Are the transmission lines metal? I haven't looked yet. I'm assuming they are. What's the best way to plug them when making the change?

Thanks. Lance