96 E300 Lower control Arm Bushings - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shoe · #1 09-12-2007, 01:06 PM

I am planning to replace the lower control arm bushings on my wifes 210 this weekend. I have purchased an on car bushing press specifically for the 210 chassis. anyone have experiance with this type of tool? Sorry I tried to post a pic of the tool but site would not let me. I am mainly looking for any hazards that may not be obivious.

michakaveli · #2 09-12-2007, 02:59 PM

others may chime in, but it's probably easiest to purchase replacement arms and install them. At the same time replacement the lower ball joints and sway bar links ends if need be and you won't have to worry about the suspension for a while...

TMAllison · #3 09-12-2007, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michakaveli

others may chime in, but it's probably easiest to purchase replacement arms and install them. At the same time replacement the lower ball joints and sway bar links ends if need be and you won't have to worry about the suspension for a while...

How about inner tie rod assemlblies too. Mine were a little sloppy at 215K. And if you dont already have the eccentric bolts installed would be a fine time to stick them in too.

I assume you still have to pull the springs using the press you have? Would seem pretty dangerous otherwise.

shoe · #4 09-12-2007, 03:50 PM

No this press is to used with arms still on the car and I am sure the cost of complete arms is far more than I paid for the bushings and press. all the other items mentioned ar muchyounger that the bushings so all I need are the bushings replaced.

Matt L · #5 09-12-2007, 04:18 PM

I would bet that you still have to remove the springs. You certainly must remove the bolts going through the bushings; I don't see how you could possibly do that with the spring in place.

michakaveli · #6 09-12-2007, 04:21 PM

Good luck brother... Hope it goes well!

TMAllison · #7 09-12-2007, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt L

I would bet that you still have to remove the springs. You certainly must remove the bolts going through the bushings; I don't see how you could possibly do that with the spring in place.

An alignment shop recently pulled one eccentric bolt while mine was it on their rack. That rack had a secondary lift on it which would raise the LCA ~1/8" in order to slide the bolt out, etc. Little hairy to me but guess they're used to it.

To get the bushing out the LCA will have to be lowered at least 2".....I wouldn't want to be under there doing that but, maybe it is possible. Might want to use some 3/8" chain so the spring cant go too far in case of mishap.

shoe · #8 09-12-2007, 08:47 PM

I will do this job at the shop I manage we have lifts and stands to eliminate the spring issues. I am not to worried about the springs and I just recieved the press and it has some good instructions for the removal and installation of the bushings. The local indy shop I use when the cost to do a job myself is prohibitive uses the same tool and states that the job takes less than half an hour per side and they do not have to remove the springs. If I get a chance I will post some pics of the process.

raMBow · #9 09-12-2007, 09:26 PM

Without removing the spring. I looked at one a while back, let me see if I can find the link/picture...

found it, here is some info...

Bushing Master Kit for Mercedes

This special kit was designed for the crucial task of damage free R&R of front lower control arm, metal clad/ rubber mount bushings. The beauty of this job specific kit is its on-the-car application which allows the technician to tackle the repair without the need for an hydraulic press. Applicable: Mercedes chassis - W210

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bushing-Master-Kit-for-Mercedes-W210-Repair-Parts-Tools_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ180086448287QQsspagenameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101

TMAllison · #10 09-12-2007, 09:54 PM

Thats interesting. I'd like to know if the LCA will displace sufficiently to allow room for the tool to remove the bushing one end at a time.

Please post back when finished and let us know how it goes.

shoe · #11 09-13-2007, 08:15 AM

raMBOW that is the tool but mine had a driver to remove the small bushing and was a hel of a lt cheaper

TMA I will post results and photos when I get the job done.

shoe · #12 09-17-2007, 12:18 PM

Well I did the job unfortunatly I did not get any usable pics. The job went pretty much as I suspected although the first side uncovered some challenges. I did not have the spring caged well enough but was still able to get the bushings pressed in and out with out incident. The second side went with out a hitch at all. Changes the way I had the spring caged and disconnected the sway bar mount and tie rod end boy did that make a huge difference. I highly recommend using this type of tool. I plan to put mine on ebay soon so if anyone is interested in parting with it for less than what I paid. Oh another thing I found out the rear bushing are not hteones that cause problems or wear out prematurely it is the front I inspected the rear bushings and there was absolutly no wear or slack so I left them alone. The car drives great and has no more shake between 50 and 60 mph.

nhdoc · #13 09-17-2007, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shoe

Well I did the job unfortunatly I did not get any usable pics. The job went pretty much as I suspected although the first side uncovered some challenges. I did not have the spring caged well enough but was still able to get the bushings pressed in and out with out incident. The second side went with out a hitch at all. Changes the way I had the spring caged and disconnected the sway bar mount and tie rod end boy did that make a huge difference. I highly recommend using this type of tool. I plan to put mine on ebay soon so if anyone is interested in parting with it for less than what I paid. Oh another thing I found out the rear bushing are not hteones that cause problems or wear out prematurely it is the front I inspected the rear bushings and there was absolutly no wear or slack so I left them alone. The car drives great and has no more shake between 50 and 60 mph.

What's involved with "caging the spring"? Does the tool kit come with what you need to do that too or do you have to get creative?

How long did the job take you from start to finish?

shoe · #14 09-17-2007, 04:34 PM

I had to get creative I used a couple of pieces of chain run through the spring perch and through the hole in the control arm. I secured the chain with 3/8 bolts with the weight of the car on the spring. Once the car was jacked up I was able to remove the bushing bolts without fear of the spring getting nasty. The whole job took about 3 hours. Had I known how to best secure the springs for he first side I couldhave cut 45 minutes off of that time.

nhdoc · #15 09-17-2007, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shoe

I had to get creative I used a couple of pieces of chain run through the spring perch and through the hole in the control arm. I secured the chain with 3/8 bolts with the weight of the car on the spring. Once the car was jacked up I was able to remove the bushing bolts without fear of the spring getting nasty. The whole job took about 3 hours. Had I known how to best secure the springs for he first side I couldhave cut 45 minutes off of that time.

I see...I'm not really sure why it is necessary to hold the spring captive though. If the LCA pivots on the bushings then wouldn't there still be a lot of force on the bolts? I assume you do one bushing at a time, so I would think the only thing really keeping it together is the opposite bolt which is still in place while you work on one bushing. Are there some printed instructions that came with the kit you got that you could scan and post?

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